Swaziland

Tuesday 9th September

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, Swaziland

It was my turn to do some of the driving today, and having never driven abroad before, I clocked up two countries in one day as we crossed the border into Swaziland.

The border came upon us quicker than expected and was quite an experience in and of itself.  First, "departures" and a four step process to leave South Africa consisting of gate checks, passport control, customs then more gate checks.  Then, onto "arrivals" in Swaziland which was a repeat of the same procedure with the added step of obtaining a temporary import license and road tax for the car.  Presumably we'll have the same in store to re-enter South Africa tomorrow.

The length of time and quantity of paperwork involved really makes you appreciate how easily we move around the effectively borderless European Union.

The offending warthog, Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary

On crossing into Swaziland, there were several noticeable changes, the first being an absence of towns or built up areas.  For the first 100km or so, nothing but straw, and occasionally tin, huts were visible, each with some chickens or goats roaming around outside.

Clearly a comparatively poor area, one of the striking features was seeing many school-aged children running around playing or carrying out chores, in either case not at school.  We passed very few other vehicles in the rural areas, and being something of a novelty, the children all ran alongside the car to wave to us.

Another change is in landscape, having entered a very mountainous region.  The sandy roads of KwaZulu-Natal have been replaced by a dark red dust.

As we approached Manzini, the biggest city in Swaziland but small by international comparison, larger (sometimes very grand) properties started appearing.  Driving in the crowded city streets was interesting, but the old "if you can't beat them join them" attitude soon prevailed and I quickly learnt to drive like a local.

We then passed by one of the Swazi King's royal residences.  There is clearly a great fondness for the King here, who rules as an absolute monarch.  Many buildings display pictures of the King, Queen Mother and Prime Minister, and many people wear clothes or scarves bearing the King's image.  While at first this could appear dictatorial, I get the sense that it comes from a sense of affection and pride rather than duty or compulsion.

Beehive village, Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary

Inside the beehive hut

We're staying at Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, one of three national parks in Swaziland.  We'll be spending the night in a Swazi "beehive" hut - a dome made out of sticks and straw, similar to the Zulu kraal we visited.  While very basic, and full of all sorts of small creatures, it's an interesting experience, and does come with the modern convenience of a toilet and shower in an adjoining tin hut.

The wildlife around here has become remarkably habituated to human presence, with warthog and nyala so tame we could get within touching distance without them bothering.  (Although, one warthog took a dislike to me and charged at my legs as I casually walked
past.)

After dinner, we followed the sound of a drumbeat and discovered 20 or so people in traditional Swazi dress singing and dancing under some trees.  They gave quite a performance, which had an authenticity to it which was lacking at Dumazulu.

As first impressions go, Swaziland has made a good one and has certainly captured a place in my heart and imagination.