A land of contrasts

 

Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton, Johannesburg

Tuesday 2nd September

Sandton, Johannesburg

As we followed direction signs for Blairgowrie and Morningside, it would be easy to forget we had just travelled to the other side of the world.

Ahead of us lies a three week journey around South Africa's provinces of Guateng, Free State, KwaZulu Natal, Mpumalanga and North West as well as a sojourn into neighbouring Swaziland.

Thirty years ago, my parents lived and worked here so, although this is the first time I have set foot on South African soil, part of me has always felt a great affinity with this country.  Maybe it was growing up with the music of Ladysmith Black Mombaso or perhaps the braai culture that led to many outdoor childhood meals whatever the weather, but something South African is imprinted on me.  I suspect, in truth, it's the friends my parents made in South Africa whose phone calls and visits punctuated my childhood that made a lasting impression.

That's certainly what we've found in the few hours we've been here - a fantastic bunch of people.  For starters, I've never had so much fun at passport control as when listening to the marriage advice dolled out as part of the service today.  Contrast that with the domineering, no-nonsense matriarchal figure running the car hire desk, or the windscreen washer who, when told we didn't need our screen washed, performed a dance in the street for us instead.

Saddening, then, amidst such fun and characters to have found such a dependence on guns.  We're staying in one of Jo'burg's wealthy suburbs, and armed security guards are routinely employed to protect each person's own little bubble.

Saddening, too, the divide that exists between rich and poor.  Running along the east side of wealthy Sandton is the M1 road, the other side of which likes Alexandra, one of South Africa's poorest townships.

It's difficult to reconcile the lavish spending on armed security to protect a leafy suburb while overlooking such poverty.

This certainly seems like a land of contrasts...