Culchur

Demonstration of stick fighting, Dumazulu Cultural Village

Sunday 7th September

Hluhluwe, KwaZulu-Natal

It may be Sunday, but a day of rest this was not.

This morning, we visited Dumazulu a traditionally styled Zulu conservation village where the rituals of a people are maintained and showcased.

We were met outside by an elder in full traditional regalia who spoke to us at length in isiZulu while we stood by understanding none of it.  There's something very strange about not being able to communicate a word, yet somehow enjoying one another's company.  Eventually, he gave up trying to speak to us and offered some fruit to eat.  I have no idea what it was - encased in a shell so hard he had to beat it open with his walking stick - but it was very sweet and tasty.  I hope we didn't cause too much offence by spitting the seeds out, as it later became apparent that these are simply swallowed by the locals.

Our cultural inhibitions were much relieved when our guide turned up and was able to translate for us.  She explained the ritual as a drumbeat was sound to ask permission to enter the village, and on hearing the drums reply we were allowed to enter.

As well as the chance to visit the inside of an empty kraal which is laid out with artefacts for explaining the set-up to visitors, we were shown demonstrations of spear and shield making by some enthusiastic young men, and bead and basket making by some less-enthusiastic women.  The tour ended with some of the villagers singing Zulu wedding songs for us.

While much of this was clearly contrived for the benefit of tourists, and some of the women taking part were clearly weary of demonstrating their skills to yet another tour, it was still interesting to learn more about Zulu culture.

For example, when a Zulu man is to take a wife, he must pay eleven cows (or in modern times, the cash equivalent) to the bride's father.  If he is a Christian and is married in church, he is allowed only one wife.  If he is not, and is married in a traditional ceremony, he is allowed many wives, so long as each one agrees.

The unmarried women do not cover their bodies and either wear a loose sarong or remain topless, advertising that they are "still on the market" - their words, not mine!  On engagement, they wear long black robes, and once married add a red head-dress and leather underskirt.  Married men wear a beaded necklace to show they are wed.

It's fascinating that so many diverse ancient cultures all place the woman as 'property' who is 'sold' from father to groom.  Why have men managed to dominate so many different societies?

Next to the village was a bird and reptile park, containing some of Africa's most venomous snakes and several large crocodiles, however they paled into insignificance compared to what followed...

Crocodile, Lake St. Lucia

Before long, we were on a boat safari on Lake St. Lucia.  Very quickly, we (or rather our guide) had spotted several crocodile basking at the water's edge.  There's something far more exciting about coming across an animal in its natural environment than seeing it in a park or zoo.

A short while later, we came across a pod of hippopotamus, and were able to get to within about 10 feet of them.  All in all, we saw 6 crocodiles, 3 pods each of about 20 hippo, a goliath heron and an African delta.

Hippopotamus, Lake St.Lucia

The beach just beyond the estuary of St. Lucia is also breathtakingly beautiful, and when we arrived there at dusk, a few hundred locals had gathered for a huge party, with several minibuses decked-out with amplifiers blasting out music and singing, dancing, eating and drinking going on all around.

Drums and spears and skins are all well and good but, like the market and petrol station in Hluhluwe, this stumbled-upon beach party seemed a much more authentic expression of the modern culture of Zululand.

(The genet paid a fleeting visit tonight.)