Scotsmen have guilt

Karoo

Friday 16th December

Cape Town, Western Cape

We awoke as the sun rose over the Karoo.  A small herd of springbok grazed on the sparse vegetation as the train rolled merrily forward.

As we enter the Western Cape, the landscape changes: mountains appear, the ground becomes greener, flamingos and heron occupy the water.  The valleys become packed with vineyards and the talk in the lounge car turns to the quality of various wines.

The train manager approaches.  "So, you're a Scotsman - you must have a guilt," he declares.

I momentarily ponder this statement.  Is it a result of the effect of Calvinism on our culture?  Does it relate to our colonial past?  Just as I am preparing to unburden my soul, I see from his hand gestures that what he meant to say was "kilt".

I chuckle inwardly at my misapprehension and the conversation that could have flowed from it, but he soon sparks off another language question.

"We call bagpipes dudelsacks.  What do you call them?" he asks.  "Bagpipes," I reply.

It all sets me off thinking about the similarities between our languages:

• Ag (pronounced lich "och" and meaning the same)
• Bakkie - pick-up truck
• China - friend
• Kak - shit
• Kerk - church
• Muggie - flying bug
• Tekkies - trainers
• Vellies - outdoor shoes

Many cultures and nationalities are present on the train.  On hearing we were from Scotland, one American gentleman responded, "Great!  I love Dublin!"  We didn't shatter his illusions.

26 hours after leaving, the train rolled into Cape Town station amid torrential rain and gale force winds.  When the weather finally abated, we walked along the V&A Waterfront, a textbook example of how to redevelop a former industrial site into a gentrified upmarket location.

We'll be back here next week to visit Robben Island, so more on that later.  Tomorrow, we head north up the West Coast in the hope of catching some of the Cape flower season.