Die Eiland

Friday 23rd September

Hout Bay, Cape Town, Western Cape Province

Die Eiland

Looking out from Table Bay, just 12km from the shore sits the unmistakeable outline of Robben Island. 

As we sailed towards it on a modern catamaran with dolphins swimming alongside, it could not have been a more different arrival that that experienced by its prisoners who would be enclosed in darkness in the bowels of the Susan Kruger on the choppy sea.

The tour of the island began by bus, revealing the graves of its former leper colony, the warders' village and the house of Robert Sobukwe - a man deemed so dangerous the was not allowed with the other prisoners.

After that, we were shown around the Maximum Security Prison by one of its former inmates Zozo, who spent five years here from 1977-1982 for protesting during the Soweto Uprising of 1976.

The clanging of the metal doors is reminiscent of the opening credits of Porridge, but this is no HMP Slade, and the wardens here would have made Mr Mackay seem like Father Christmas.

Exercise yard and Mandela's garden

We were shown the admissions room, the censor's office where prisoners' letters were cut to shreds, the exercise yard (including Mandela's garden), the solitary confinement unity and the cells of B-section, but there's just one cell that most people are interested in - that of prisoner 466/64 - Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela.

Zozo used this opportunity, as he did many others, to preach Mandela's message of peace and reconciliation - "otherwise, this is all for nothing.  You must forogive.  You must forgive."

Clearly, though, this is not an easy experience for him.  Asked if it is important to him to tell his story, he replies, "No.  I do not want to be here - it is too traumatic.  But I need to feed my family."  As we pass the solitary confinement unit he mumbles, "They send you here and they do things to you.  Things I can't talk about."  As the tears well up in his eyes, it is difficult to realise that he has to relive these horrors multiple times each day for the benefit of tourists.

Mandela's cell

As we say farewell in D-section, he finishes with an impassioned plea - "Please, go home and tell everyone in your country that South Africa is an amazing country where all are equal before the law.  Encourage them to visit.  We need them, and we need their investment.  Please, tell people to come."

And so I do: Zozo is right - this is the most wonderful country and you really must visit.

After a very rough crossing back to the V&A Waterfront, we took a ride on the Cape Wheel to get a look over the bay. 

This was nothing, however, compared to the view from the top of Table Mountain, which we ascended by cable car.

Zozo

Die Eiland was clearly visible from the top, and the opposite is also true.  From Robben Island, Table Mountain loomed so large it must have offered Mandela and his comrades a constant and taunting glimpse of freedom.  A freedom - thank God - they were able to see in their lifetime.  For countless others, though, their part in the struggle did not allow them to see the benefits it won.

Looking from the mountain over the glorious white-sand beaches, the busy modern city, the lush vineyards of the winelands, Zozo's plea again comes to mind - this is a wonderful country, and you really must visit.

View from Table Mountain - the Beloved Country