Thereanent

I'm periodically asked about the name of this blog.  What is "thereanent"?

Is it the re-anent, as in "she tried the re-anent, but it did not work" or "he went to the re-anent but found it empty"?

Could it be there an ent, as in the Morningside pronunciation of "over there, an ant hill once stood"?

Or is it therean ent, an entrainment company specialising is metamorphosing into animals?

It is, of course, none of these things.  It is simply a wonderful Scots word, used largely in legal (and ecclesiastical) circles:

thereanent (ˈðɛərəˈnɛnt)
adv. Scottish in reference to; concerning

It is one in a long line of such words, which are in a sad and steady decline in usage.  This blog is named in a subtle attempt to keep alive that particular line of Scots Presbyterianese, the use of which would make our language much more vibrant, as the following tale illustrates:

Come on Irene

Across South Africa, and the world, an unexpected hope has arisen that by the end of today, Jacob Zuma may have been recalled as president of the ANC, and subsequently the country.

The party's National Executive Committee has been meeting in Irene, where on Saturday night Tourism Minister Derek Hanekom surprised everyone by tabling a motion for Zuma to step down.  He is supported by at least three other prominent members of cabinet.  The motion was filibustered until yesterday, to try and get as many Zuma supporters as possible present, and then they announced that the conference would be extended until today - and we are told it will go on "very late".

It seems something is definitely afoot.  Zuma can no longer rely on the full support of his NEC.  His days are numbered, but hopes that he will be removed today may be a little premature.  Why?  There is simply too much at stake.  JZ has drawn those around him into a web of corruption and state capture, and those closest to him know that when he goes, their careers will also be on the line.

Take, for example, Minister of Cooperative Government Des van Rooyen - the one who Zuma made Finance Minister for all of three days.  He has lodged himself firmly in the Zupta camp, even going so far as to launch two legal bids to stop the release of the State of Capture report.  Any future president could not keep him in their cabinet.

Nor could they keep any others implicated in dodgy dealings with the Gupta family, such as Minister of Mineral Resources Mosebenzi Zwane.

Or Nathi Nhleko, the Minister of Police, who found that Zuma's swimming pool was actually a fire extinguisher, and his chicken coup a security measure.  No one other than JZ would allow him to remain in his position.

Or what about Shaun Abrahams, head of the National Prosecuting Authority, who brought phoney charges against Minister of Finance Pravin Gordhan to try and pave the way for JZ to remove him from office, collapsing the value of the rand in the process.

Or Hlaudi Mostoeneng, CEO of Corporate Affairs at SABC who had been found to have lied about his qualifications, yet as a JZ supporter remains in post.

Even new Public Protector Busisiwe Mkwebane has firmly nailed her colours to the Zuma mast, even going so far as to lay trumped-up charges against her predecessor in a bid to discredit the work of Thuli Madonsela.

These are just the tip of the iceberg.  The cabinet, SABC, SAA, Eskom and countless other state owned enterprises will have to come under new leadership when Zuma is gone.

No wonder they are trying every last ditch attempt to keep him, despite the damage that would do to the country.  We can only hope and pray that common sense and a sense of justice prevail in the NECs discussions.  To mis-quote Dexy's Midnight Runners, "Come on Irene" - the world awaits your decision.

Last tango in Pretoria?

South African President Jacob Zuma loves to dance.

He has certainly led the country and the governing ANC a merry dance, playing footloose and fancy free with the country’s hard-won constitution.

Fired by Thabo Mbeki from his role as deputy president in 2007 when facing corruption charges, Zuma’s legal quickstep saw him elected ANC President, the prosecution against him dropped on a flimsy technicality and Mbeki ousted as president, all preparing the way for Zuma to take the floor after the 2009 election.

Steps were quickly taken to ensure that the institutions of state danced to Zuma’s tune – the Scorpions investigative unit (which brought the corruption charges against him) was disbanded, Zuma allies were placed into key roles such as the head of the National Prosecuting Authority (which promptly dropped all charges against him), government contracts were awarded to Zuma-linked companies, his private homestead at Nkandla was enriched using taxpayers money and privileges were granted to his friends in the Gupta family, who even used a South African Air Force base to land their private plane for a wedding.

Through scandals of corruption, maladministration and even sex, Zuma sidestepped the blame and waltzed cheerfully onwards as if nothing had happened.

Only two state institutions refused to get into step with the twinkle-toed president: The Treasury and the Public Protector.  Both have been in a long dance-off with Zuma which was due to reach its crescendo this week in two high-profile court cases.

When Zuma appointed Advocate Thuli Madonsela to the ombudsman role of Public Protector seven years ago, she was largely unheard of and not thought to present much of a risk to his plans.

Nothing could have turned out further from the truth.  Madonsela ruthlessly investigated cases against Zuma brought to her and was not afraid to stand up to the machinery of government in issuing her findings.

In one of the most publicised cases, her Secure in Comfort report revealed the spending of millions of rand on building a swimming pool, amphitheatre, chicken coup, cattle kraal and visitors’ centre at his private home in Nkandla – all billed to the taxpayer as ‘security upgrades’.  She ordered that Zuma should pay back a fitting proportion of the money, and so began a legal battle as dramatic and passionate as an Argentine Tango.

In a landmark judgement, the Constitutional Court ruled that Madonsela’s findings were binding, and that the President and parliament had violated the constitution by not carrying out her remedial actions.

As Madonsela’s term of office drew to a close in October, she found herself in another legal battle with Jacob Zuma.  On her final day in the job, she was due to release her findings into allegations of ‘state capture’ brought about when Deputy Finance Minister Mcebisi Jonas and MP Vytjie Mentor revealed that they had been offered cabinet promotions by members of the Gupta family. 

Just hours before Madonsela was due to release the report, Zuma launched a court bid to interdict the report, claiming he did not have enough time to respond to her findings.  The case will be heard on November 1^st, with Madonsela’s (Zuma-appointed) successor Busisiwe Mkwebane already saying she will not oppose his bid to block the report.  Minister Des van Rooyen also made a bid to block it, withdrew it and reinstated it again today.  His favoured dance is clearly the hokey-cokey – in, out, in out…

The following day, November 2^nd, the Pretoria Regional Court was due to hear charges of fraud brought against Finance Minister Pravin Gordhan.

Gordhan was not Zuma’s choice for Finance Minister and is somewhat of a thorn in the side.  There have long been tensions between the treasury and the presidency, as the former tried to keep check on the excesses of the latter.  This led to Zuma spontaneously firing respected Finance Minister Nhlanhla Nene in December last year, to replace him with a more pliable dance partner in the form of Des van Rooyen.

The ANC leadership, however, smelt a rat as the value of the rand plunged, and forced Zuma into replacing van Rooyen just three days later with safe pair of hands Pravin Gordhan.  Since then, Zuma has had every organ of state looking for a way to remove Gordhan from his position.

The best they came up with is an allegation that Gordhan committed fraud during his time at the South African Revenue Service by authorising the early retirement of a commissioner.  The charges against Gordhan were clearly politically motivated, and were withdrawn at the last moment by National Director of Public Prosecutions Shaun Abrahams who clearly finds the heat of the dancefloor too much.

This week sees a political Paso Doble played out in the courts.  The rulings will determine whether or not South Africa’s constitutional democracy and rule of law stand firm.

Could this be Zuma’s last waltz?  Or will he be allowed to continue his jolly jig all the way to the bank?

Saying "totsiens"

Tuesday 27th September

Bole International Airport, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

As we set off towards the airport, traffic was very heavy and the reason became apparent as we approached the University of Cape Town.  Students were blocking the road in a protest against higher fees, calling for education to be free as described in the Freedom Charter.

In places, the protests are turning violent, which is extremely concerning to say the least, but at the moment, the ones ere are peaceful and good natured.

There's a general dissatisfaction with the ANC government everywhere we've been.  It seems that loyalty to the party of liberation has not been able to withstand the multiple corruption scandals of late, as the party's heavy losses in the recent local government elections have shown.  In the last few days, President Zuma has paid back a proportion of the Nkandla money, but it feels like rather too little too late.  It is clear he will now go, the only question is when.

"Enjoy the good exchange rate while you can," advised one local resident, "because when Zuma is gone, we will never allow this to happen again."

And that's the real story of South Africa.  It no longer shimmers with Mandela magic, but neither is it the failed state that some residents disgruntled with the fall of apartheid would have you believe.

Democracy is alive and well, there is a strong, independent judiciary and the office of the Public Protector is rooting out government corruption.  Things can only - and will only - continue to improve.

The repeated plea we've heard everywhere is for people to come here - the economy is dependent on foreign visitors.  And so that is my plea, too.  Visit.  This is the most geographically beautiful, ecologically fascinating and culturally diverse country in the world.  South African's are friendly and welcoming, their wildlife enthralling that there really is something for everyone - beaches, cities, wilderness, desert, luxury, basics and a retreat for the soul.

So visit.  And visit.  And visit again.  It will transform the way you see the world and will captivate your heart in a way that will never leave you.

I for one can't wait to get back...

Note: Since this diary entry was written, political events have moved apace in South Africa.  Thuli Madonsela has finished her term as Public Protector and her successor seems less enthusiastic in holding the government's feet to the fire.  Zuma is trying to block Madonsela's report into 'state capture' and her successor is not defending it.  Finance Minister Pravin Gordhan is facing trumped up charges of fraud (for offering someone early retirement) in a bid to have him replaced with someone more Zuma-friendly.  South Africa has withdrawn from the International Criminal Court.  The student protests have become increasingly violent, with many deaths now occurring.  Rather than deal with the protests, Zuma took himself off to Kenya to discuss the urgent matter of avocado prices.  Many of these matters come before the highest court in the land in November and I truly hope and believe that South Africa's courts are strong and independent and that justice will take its course.

Another religion

Monday 26th September

Hout Bay, Cape Town, Western Cape Province

National Assembly

This morning we took a stroll around Cape Town City Centre, passing the parliament and visiting St. George's Cathedral, former seat of Archbishop Desmond Tutu.  Located right next to parliament, it is easy to see what a thorn in the side of the apartheid government this must have been.

But church is not the only religion on the go here.  After lunch, we went to the Springbok Experience, the story of South Africa's love affair with rugby, described throughout as "a religion".

It tells the story from the first Springbok team in 1906, through the separate teams and boycotts of the apartheid era, the formation of the Rugby Union in 1992 and

A piece of Mandela magic

the winning of the 1995 World Cup when Mandela famously appeared on the field in a Springbok cap and Francois Pienaar's number 6 jersey in an inspired moment which united a nation.

There is an area to try out for the Bokke in a series of simulators.  It turns out my fitness is better than expected and I can kick like Patrick Lambie but am possibly the world's worst at passing.

The 'experience' finishes with a passionate 'Our Honour.  Our Heritage' film, which could convert the most sceptical into a Springbok fan.  This is followed with a pint of the local beer, a sip of which reminded me why I don't drink.

Enough said

Perhaps the most amusing part of the museum was the account of South Africa's first game against Scotland, which the Boks won 44-0.  One Scotland fan is quoted as saying, "Forty-four nil, and we were lucky to get the nil!"

Dinner overlooking the V&A Waterfront signalled our last night here, then as if to get us ready for going home, the heavens opened on the drive back round the bay.

Taking to the skies

Sunday 25th September

Hout Bay, Cape Town, Western Cape Privonce

Cape Town Helicopters

The coast of the peninsula and the hills that surround it are so breathtakingly beautiful that it's hard to take them all in, so we decided to see them from above by helicopter.

Flying from the east pier of the V&A Waterfront, we rounded Sea Point, flew over the beaches of Clifton and Camps Bay and crossed over to Hout Bay, circling over the harbour and turning over the place where we are staying before returning by the same route.

Sea Point and V&A Waterfront from above

Seeing from above only serves to make things even more beautiful - the changing tones of the water, the dramatic waves crashing against the cliff faces, the chance to see Table Mountain, Signal Hill and the Twelve Apostles all in one view.  That it was a gloriously sunny day helped!

Though Cape Town's CBD appears relatively small, seeing the Cape Flats stretch out for miles really brings home how big a city it is.  From the opposite window, Robben Island looks suffocatingly small when viewed from above.  (Actually, it looks like Craggy Island in the opening credits of Father Ted.)

Hout Bay from above

As the helicopter lowers over the waterfront, it strikes me what an incredible development this is - the whole world in one harbour.

Contrast the tranquillity of the bay with the hustle and bustle of the Bay Market Harbour we visited this morning.  This extended garage sale for local artists was alive with music, bartering and trade.

The afternoon was so hot that we headed to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens to stroll amongst the proteas and succulents and enjoy the weather.

And, a day late, we were able to celebrate National Braai Day.

Cape Point

Saturday 24th September - Heritage Day

Hout Bay, Cape Town, Western Cape Province

Cape Point

Cape Point earns a living from being mistaken for the most southerly tip of Africa.  It is not.  That accolade lies a few hundred kilometres away at Cape Agulhas, but that doesn't stop the busloads of tourists showing up here and taking a selfie.  It is, though, the most south-westerly point of Africa and offers far more dramatic scenery than Agulhas.

As the rugged cliffs plunge into the sea, which appears calm on one side and stormy on the other, it does have a feeling of being at the very end of the earth.

Heritage Day singing

Except, that is, for the unending stream of coach tours, each bring a new bunch of tourists to jostle for the best picture-taking spot.  Just as the very limits of faith in humanity are being tested, along comes a throng of women wearing their traditional dress (as today is Heritage Day) singing hymns and freedom songs which touch every corner of the soul.  Their presence even drowns out the cries of the baboons who command control of these cliffs.  (Aside - these are the only baboons in the world that hunt for shellfish on the beach.)

The drive over Chapman's Peak to get down to the Cape Peninsula feels like being in a car advert, twisting and winding its way round the blue waters and rugged rock face.

Penguins, Boulders Beach

Returning up the other coast, we stopped at Boulder's Beach to visit another colony of African penguins, many of which had chicks.  On the neighbouring beach, we were able to get down into the water with a few of them.  They move at quite a speed as they fish through the kelp forests.

Heritage Day is also celebrated as National Braai Day, but the weather is somewhat damp and miserable, so we will postpone our celebrations until tomorrow.  For now, the local steakhouse will have to suffice...

Only in Africa...

Die Eiland

Friday 23rd September

Hout Bay, Cape Town, Western Cape Province

Die Eiland

Looking out from Table Bay, just 12km from the shore sits the unmistakeable outline of Robben Island. 

As we sailed towards it on a modern catamaran with dolphins swimming alongside, it could not have been a more different arrival that that experienced by its prisoners who would be enclosed in darkness in the bowels of the Susan Kruger on the choppy sea.

The tour of the island began by bus, revealing the graves of its former leper colony, the warders' village and the house of Robert Sobukwe - a man deemed so dangerous the was not allowed with the other prisoners.

After that, we were shown around the Maximum Security Prison by one of its former inmates Zozo, who spent five years here from 1977-1982 for protesting during the Soweto Uprising of 1976.

The clanging of the metal doors is reminiscent of the opening credits of Porridge, but this is no HMP Slade, and the wardens here would have made Mr Mackay seem like Father Christmas.

Exercise yard and Mandela's garden

We were shown the admissions room, the censor's office where prisoners' letters were cut to shreds, the exercise yard (including Mandela's garden), the solitary confinement unity and the cells of B-section, but there's just one cell that most people are interested in - that of prisoner 466/64 - Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela.

Zozo used this opportunity, as he did many others, to preach Mandela's message of peace and reconciliation - "otherwise, this is all for nothing.  You must forogive.  You must forgive."

Clearly, though, this is not an easy experience for him.  Asked if it is important to him to tell his story, he replies, "No.  I do not want to be here - it is too traumatic.  But I need to feed my family."  As we pass the solitary confinement unit he mumbles, "They send you here and they do things to you.  Things I can't talk about."  As the tears well up in his eyes, it is difficult to realise that he has to relive these horrors multiple times each day for the benefit of tourists.

Mandela's cell

As we say farewell in D-section, he finishes with an impassioned plea - "Please, go home and tell everyone in your country that South Africa is an amazing country where all are equal before the law.  Encourage them to visit.  We need them, and we need their investment.  Please, tell people to come."

And so I do: Zozo is right - this is the most wonderful country and you really must visit.

After a very rough crossing back to the V&A Waterfront, we took a ride on the Cape Wheel to get a look over the bay. 

This was nothing, however, compared to the view from the top of Table Mountain, which we ascended by cable car.

Zozo

Die Eiland was clearly visible from the top, and the opposite is also true.  From Robben Island, Table Mountain loomed so large it must have offered Mandela and his comrades a constant and taunting glimpse of freedom.  A freedom - thank God - they were able to see in their lifetime.  For countless others, though, their part in the struggle did not allow them to see the benefits it won.

Looking from the mountain over the glorious white-sand beaches, the busy modern city, the lush vineyards of the winelands, Zozo's plea again comes to mind - this is a wonderful country, and you really must visit.

View from Table Mountain - the Beloved Country

A limerick tribute to Thuli...

In her role as the Public Protector -
SA's corruption inspector -
Thuli Madonsela
was something quite stellar:
if she stands for high office, elect her!

Despite intimidation and threat,
she proved a tremendous asset:
she spoke truth to power,
caused grown men to cower
in a way we will never forget.

With bravery and with good humour,
she stood up to President Zuma.
To cries of "Amandla!"
she showed that Nkandla
was more than an EFF rumour.

At the close of a seven year chapter,
she bowed out to cheers of great rapture,
but right to the end
she had to defend
investigating State Capture.

So now at the end of her reign,
Thuli's legacy will remain.
Her's certainly will
be big shoes to fill,
but our loss is Stellenbosch's gain.

Volmoed

Thursday 22nd September

Hout Bay, Cape Town, Western Cape Province

Volmoed literally means 'full of courage' and that is a good descriptor of the people who bought the farm we've been staying on in 1986 at the height of apartheid violence to create a place of peace and reconciliation where all are welcome.

A community lives on Volmoed today and they offer their ministry of reconciliation to all comers.

Before departing, we joined the community for their weekly sharing of Holy Communion led by the theologian John W de Gruchy.  He reflected on the way apartheid abused the story of the tower of Babel to create a theology of division and linked this to the story of Pentecost as a theology of reconciliation.  "God wants us all to find our voice in the world," he claimed, and suggested that the #FeesMustFall student protests for free education currently taking place across the country were a result of precisely that - young people finding their voice.  Our role as Christian is not to be a voice for the voiceless, but rather to help the voiceless find their voice.  (You can - and should - read John's full meditation here: http://volmoedhermanus.blogspot.co.uk/2016/09/meditation-language-community-by-john.html)

The Volmoed Community was truly one of the most welcoming groups of people we've ever come across.  And, as ever, they proved a reminder of how small a world we live in - one man was a close friend of John Cairns and Bert Kerrigan.

(Some clearly also thought Scotland was a small place - "Do you know a Mrs Oliphants?  She lives in Scotland.")

Penguins at Stony Point

 From Volmoed, we drove around the coastal road of False Bay, stopping at Stony Point where we encountered the rather large colony of African penguins, many with chicks.

There are several colonies along this coast, despite all the odds against them.  The penguins and their eggs are preyed upon by otters, mongoose, genets and even leopards, and competition for food is fierce - the seal population here has increased from 100,000 to over 2 million in the last century.  Still, though, these little colonies of fascinating birds hang on in there - perhaps they could also be described as 'volmoed'.

African Penguin at Stony Point

From here, it was on to Hout Bay, where a couple of very large seals were being fed fish on the harbour wall, and Camps Bay, which has a beach to rival any Caribbean island.  The bay is overlooked by the "Twelve Apostles" hills, though we could only count eleven - perhaps Judas has sloped off into the shadows.

The sea was, however, freezing cold - neither of us had enough 'moed' to give it a try!

Whales

Wednesday 21st September

Volmoed Community, Hermanus, Western Cape Province

Southern right whale

The whales came out in force this morning.  They are southern rights and this is their breeding season.  They are easy to identify by their distinctive v-shaped 'blow' and we were delighted by several of them frolicking in the bay.

After this, we drove to Caledon for a spot of relaxation in the thermal springs there before returning to Hermanus to check on the whales (and dassies) as the sun set.

The sky looks magnificent tonight: not only the Southern Cross and a multitude of stars, but whole galaxies can be seen.  It is only when staying so far in the middle of nowhere that one realises how much of life is drowned in artificial light.

Southern right whale

Choose life, choose a job...

Tuesday 20th September

Volmoed Community, Hermanus, Western Cape

Today we said goodbye to the Cederberg hills and headed to the south coast.

En route, we stopped at Solms Delta vineyard, a community empowerment programme started by South African Mark Solms and British businessman Richard Astor.  Members of the local community whose lives were impacted by slavery and apartheid are helped to buy and manage a vineyard which is then used to produce Solms Delta wine, with the profits earning a living for many families.

They state their aims as being to ensure that future generations can choose a living based on preference and skills rather than being forced into one by fate or necessity.  Solms Delta is a true success story of Black Economic Empowerment and a model that could well be followed across the country.

Dassie

After lunch in nearby Franschoek, we drove over the Franschoek Pass, where the scenery of the whole world lies before you: first, the lush vineyards of Southern France, then looking down the valley into the Swiss Alps, heading over the Rocky Mountains into a desolate stony outcrop on the Western Isles and arriving into the rolling green hills of middle England.

We arrived in Hermanus, which claims to offer the best land-based whale watching on earth.  There were no whales to be seen, but the hundreds of dassies (rock hyrax) jumping about on the cliffs kept us amused.

Dassie

"For added adventure, take your partner to the top of a really steep cliff..."

The world's most remarkable woman?

I'd like to stop and salute one of the world's most remarkable women.  She has championed the cause of justice.  She has stood up to powerful male bullies.  She has faced death threats and intimidation.  She has almost single-handedly fought to defend democracy and good governance and to combat corruption.  And yet, most Brits will never have heard of her.

Advocate Thuli Madonsela

Her name is Thuli Madonsela and at midnight, she ended her seven year term as South Africa's Public Protector, a sort of ombudsman into all areas of government and executive life.

When she was appointed in 2009, the Office of the Public Protector didn't have much of a profile, would not have been seen by those in office as a threat to their power and Madonsela was not regarded as anything special.  But that disregards her history...

In the early 1980s, she was a teacher in Swaziland then Soweto, and went on to work for the trade union movements fighting against apartheid, serving in both the ANC and the United Democratic Movement.  She completed legal studies at the University of Swaziland in 1987 and qualified as an advocate in 1990.  In 1994, she turned down the chance to become an ANC MP, believing politics would not allow her to make her "best contribution as a human being."  She became part of Nelson Mandela's team to draft South Africa's constitution, widely regarded as the most progressive and egalitarian in the world, and went on to serve on the South African Law Reform Society.

From her appointment as Public Protector, she has investigated South Africa's most powerful people, including the Chief of Police, the chair of the ANC Youth League, government ministers and leading businesspeople and has been a constant thorn in the side of an increasingly corrupt President Zuma.  She has ruthlessly investigated government excesses, incompetence and corruption and reported boldly with her own artistic flair. 

In the most publicised case, she found in 2014 that President Jacob Zuma had benefited unduly from R23million of public money spent on his private residence in Nkandla.  These so-called "security upgrades" included a swimming pool, an amphitheatre, a cattle kraal and a chicken coup.  She ordered that Zuma should pay back an appropriate sum to the public purse.  But Zuma, and the ANC in parliament, took every opportunity to dismiss her report and her powers.  She was publicly threatened by leading members of the party and accused of being "partisan" and "overstepping her office".

But Madonsela was unflinching.  She held press conference after press conference exposing the truth of what the President and his bully-boys were up to.  She tweeted with words so brave they bordered on foolish.  She took Zuma, Parliament and the Speaker of Parliament to the highest court in the land... and won.  The Constitutional Court found that the President, Speaker and Parliament had all "failed to uphold the constitution" in not carrying out Madonsela's remedial actions.  Last month, Zuma finally paid back some of the money.  The Goliath of the system was no match for Madonsela's David.

Even on her last day in the job, Madonsela was fighting to speak truth to power.  She announced she would release the report into her investigation into "state capture", prompted when Minister Jonas revealed he had been offered the position of Finance Minister by a wealth businessman.

At the last minute, Zuma and Minister Des van Rooyen launched legal proceedings to try and interdict her from reporting, clearly hoping to kick the issue into the long grass when the new Public Protector takes over.  The interdict hearing will be held on 1st November, but she has preserved her report, lodging a copy with the Speaker of Parliament so that it can be released in full once the proceedings are over even though she is no longer in office.

On Wednesday, she was announced as one of the Tällberg Foundation's Global Leaders - one of the five most important and influential women in the world.

Madonsela insists she just did her job, but without her, South Africa could have become another Zimbabwe with a leadership seeking only to enhance and entrench its own power.  Because of her courage and leadership, democracy and the rule of law remain intact. 

I encourage you to find out more about this remarkable woman.  Google "Thuli Madonsela".  Watch her interview with BBC Hardtalk on iPlayer.  Share her story far and wide as an important female role model.  And watch out... if she is prepared to break her self-imposed ban from politics, we could one day be looking at President Thuli Madonsela.

Small is beautiful

Our breakfast companion

Monday 19th September 2016

Wolfkop Nature Reserve, Citrusdal, Western Cape Province

It's not every day a mongoose joins you for breakfast, but sitting on the stoep, an incredibly tame grey mongoose came to chance its luck for some food.  Sorry boetie, no eggs here!

Ramskop Nature Reserve

After playing with our new-found friend, we drove north to Clanwilliam in search of the flowers, but were informed that we were too late - they were over.

As we were there anyway, we headed to Ramskop Nature Reserve and were impressed to find the whole ground blanketed in yellow and orange Cape daisies.  The locals walking around were very disappointed that they were "past their best" but we were astounded by their beauty.  If they are this beautiful when past their best, how stunning must they be at their peak?

Tiny tortoise

Our attention was quickly distracted, however, by a tiny tortoise barely two inches long joining us on the path.  There may be no lions or elephants in this part of the country, but nature is showing us that small can also be beautiful.

God's garden

Cape flowers

Sunday 18th September

Wolfkop Nature Reserve, Citrusdal, Western Cape Province

Like a sudden explosion of skittles, for a few weeks each year, the usually arid coastline and desert of the Western Cape burst into bloom with carpets of the most delicate flowers.  In fact, there are more species of flower in this small area than in the entire United Kingdom.

Eland among the flowers, West Coast National Park

Beginning at Saldhanna Bay in the Postberg section, we worked our way around all of Western Cape National Park, frequently having to stop and wait as tortoises crossed the road.  The delicacy and vibrancy of the flowers is mesmerising.  The way they tile themselves towards the sun means they are awash with colour in one direction and can't be seen from the other.

Perhaps the only thing that could match their beauty is the azure bay lapping against the finest white sand.  A more heavenly scene could not be imagined.

Being so remote, we were unable to go to a church this morning, but it is hard not to feel in the presence of God in these surroundings.

The kiss of the sun for pardon,

the song of the bird for mirth:

one's nearer to God in a garden

than anywhere else on earth.

West Coast National Park

After lunch, we headed to the town of Citrusdal, nestled - as the name suggests - amidst endless groves of citrus fruit.  The hills at times look like the Scottish Highlands, at others like the Arizona Desert.  It is a landscape both breath-taking and forbidding.

Leopard spoor have been found near our accommodation - there's no knowing what lurks in these hills!

Wild flowers

Saturday 17th September

West Coast National Park, Western Cape Province

Table Mountain, seen from Cape Town's V&A Waterfront

Table Mountain revealed herself this morning in all her sun-bathed glory.  It has a rather captivating effect - everywhere you turn, it is there, somewhat like the Matterhorn in Switzerland.

We left Cape Town and headed north to the town of Darling, which was celebrating its annual wildflower show this weekend.  There were very few flowers to be found (they don't like to pick the wildflowers) but the whole thing affords an opportunity for a giant party - stalls, good food, wine tasting and merriment aplenty, plus we were able to get our hands on some pofertjies, which put me in seventh heaven.

Wild flowers in West Coast National Park

After there, we travelled on to West Coast National Park where we were able to see carpets of the wildflowers in the Postberg section, a restricted piece of land only open for two months of the year.  We also saw ostrich, wildebeest, springbok, bontebok, eland, kudu and many different species of bird.

We are spending the night in Duinepos Chalets, a community project to bring economic benefits to the people of Langebaan.  The authorities selected all of the owners, staff and contractors by door-to-door visits to the local settlements, and those involved have been running it now for over a decade.  The whole thing is run as an eco-tourism destination, using very few resources and channelling employment and profits into this remote area.  South Africa needs more endeavours like this to inject change and hope into some of its poorest communities.

Scotsmen have guilt

Karoo

Friday 16th December

Cape Town, Western Cape

We awoke as the sun rose over the Karoo.  A small herd of springbok grazed on the sparse vegetation as the train rolled merrily forward.

As we enter the Western Cape, the landscape changes: mountains appear, the ground becomes greener, flamingos and heron occupy the water.  The valleys become packed with vineyards and the talk in the lounge car turns to the quality of various wines.

The train manager approaches.  "So, you're a Scotsman - you must have a guilt," he declares.

I momentarily ponder this statement.  Is it a result of the effect of Calvinism on our culture?  Does it relate to our colonial past?  Just as I am preparing to unburden my soul, I see from his hand gestures that what he meant to say was "kilt".

I chuckle inwardly at my misapprehension and the conversation that could have flowed from it, but he soon sparks off another language question.

"We call bagpipes dudelsacks.  What do you call them?" he asks.  "Bagpipes," I reply.

It all sets me off thinking about the similarities between our languages:

• Ag (pronounced lich "och" and meaning the same)
• Bakkie - pick-up truck
• China - friend
• Kak - shit
• Kerk - church
• Muggie - flying bug
• Tekkies - trainers
• Vellies - outdoor shoes

Many cultures and nationalities are present on the train.  On hearing we were from Scotland, one American gentleman responded, "Great!  I love Dublin!"  We didn't shatter his illusions.

26 hours after leaving, the train rolled into Cape Town station amid torrential rain and gale force winds.  When the weather finally abated, we walked along the V&A Waterfront, a textbook example of how to redevelop a former industrial site into a gentrified upmarket location.

We'll be back here next week to visit Robben Island, so more on that later.  Tomorrow, we head north up the West Coast in the hope of catching some of the Cape flower season.

Shosholoza

Thursday 15th September

On a train, North West Province

South Africa doesn't really go in for public transport, certainly not on long-haul routes.  Driving or flying are really the only ways to cover any distance.

But today, we tried out two of its (very different) train systems.  First up, the Gautrain.  Opened six years ago, this ultra-fast, ultra-modern metro-style system connects major destination around Johannesburg and Pretoria.

Today, we handed back our hire car and took the Gautrain back to Jo'burg city centre.  The trains have a bit of a futuristic look, run to a schedule Mussolini would have been proud of and are governed by almost as fascist a set of rules - I could have been fined R700 for daring to take a sip of my water!

All-in-all, it is an incredibly impressive transport system, designed to convey a sense of safety and security within a city notorious for danger.

That said, walking around Jozie's streets felt no less safe than many parts of London or Glasgow.  We even found time to visit Smit Street in Hillbrow - one of the places my parents lived.

Premier Classe Train

From Johannesburg, we boarded the Premier Classe train to Cape Town, the public operator's (significantly cheaper) version of the Rovos or Blue Train luxury journeys.  It doesn't pretend to meet the Beverley Hills style of its rivals, but offers fine dining and well appointed cabins for this 26 hour journey across the country.

Leaving the city and passing right through some of the poorest townships we've seen, it did make one feel a tad uncomfortable sitting down to a silver-service five-course meal.  Such is the wealth divide in this land.

We are currently about half-way between Johannesburg and Kimberley.  Bed is calling, and with all being well, we should wake up somewhere in the middle of the Karoo.

All that glistens...

Wednesday 14th September

Central Business District, Johannesburg, Gauteng Province

All that glistens is not gold.  Surely the converse is also true: all that is gold does not glisten.

The grim statistics showing the deaths in Johannesburg's gold mines certainly do not glisten - over 80,000 caused by accidents, and this only about 5% of the total, the others caused by preventable disease.

As the metal cage descends into the darkness of the gold mine, our three bodies filling a space once packed with thirty men, it begins to become apparent what a hellish job this was.

Gold Reef City, Johannesburg

We are given a tour of a former mineshaft and descend just 75m below the surface.  This mine is over 3000m deep and gets so close to the earth's core that working conditions become unbearably hot.

First down the shaft would have been the geologists to identify the gold reef - it's not the part that looks gold (for that is fool's gold) but rather the part with black and white pebbles.  They would mark the seam with red paint, then thousands of men would descend to extract the rock and push it to the surface in rail carriages known as cocopans.  All that protected the miners rom the tonnes of rock above were a few poles of eucalyptus wood.

As we re-ascend to the surface to watch a demonstration of how the gold is extracted, melted and poured into bullion, it becomes clear why the colonialists created a system of cheap labour to do this rotten job for them.

Today, the mine and some of the preserved buildings surrounding it have been turned into a theme park, rather like a cross between Pilgrim's Rest and Disneyland.  No longer is it rock falls and gas explosions that make men scream, now it is a series of white-knuckle rides, including the "tower of terror" plunge down a mineshaft.

Gold is the reason Johannesburg exists (they call it Egoli - the City of Gold) but when one considers the role it played in paving the way to apartheid, one has to wonder if it was more of a curse than a blessing.

Same sky, different horizons

Tuesday 13th September

Central Business District, Johannesburg, Gauteng Province

"We all live under the same sky, but each sees a different horizon."

Cheetah, Ann van Dyk Cheetah Centre

So reads the introduction to the Ann van Dyk Cheetah Centre.

Cheetah, once having five species spread over four continents, are down to one species located in a few pockets of Africa.  As they prey on the livestock of pastoral farmers, they are routinely shot and their numbers have dwindled to a critical level.

Ann van Dyk grew up on a chicken farm in De Wildt, where she developed an interest in feeding the various wild cats that passed by.  Hearing of the chance to adopt three cheetah cubs in the 1970s, she decided to create a space for them on the farm and try to breed them.  Since then, she has established one of the largest cheetah breeding programmes and has released over 800 cheetah into the wild.

Perhaps more importantly, she has set up a programme to help the local population see a different horizon and conserve rather than kill the cheetah.

Lily exercising

A few cheetah which have had to be hand-reared (for medical or other reasons) and so cannot be released to the wild become her "ambassadors" - visiting schools, communities and farms to educate and develop a love for these animals.

It was three of these ambassador cheetah that we met early in the morning as they exercised by chasing a lure - rather like the rabbit a greyhound might chase at a racecourse.

First up was Lily, a fairly young cheetah who can easily reach a speed of 120 km/h.  Then comes Jules, a "king" cheetah bearing a striped rather than spotted pattern caused by a genetic mutation.  King cheetah are not bred because they do not stand a high chance of survival in the wild.  Lastly comes Harris, an ageing cheetah recovering from surgery.  He is less ken to run, and has worked out that if he sits still, the lure will come full circle back to him.

The cheetah purrs away like a regular house cat

After this, we tour the farm, which is currently home to 112 cheetah, many of which will be released into Pilanesberg from where we have come.  The centre also breeds wild dogs - there are currently over 80 here out of a total population of just 300 in all of South Africa.

Refuge is also offered to animals which cannot live a natural life in the wild - vultures injured on power lines, troublesome honey badgers, rescued cerval and caracal.

At 86, Ann van Dyk is still very much involved in the conservation work.  The whole centre - and the survival of the cheetah as a whole - are a testament to what one woman can achieve.

From the centre, after a hair-raising drive across Johannesburg's central highway, we arrived at the Apartheid Museum to relive a portion of this country's horrific recent past.

Apartheid Museum

At the outset, we are allocated a racial group - I am white, Amanda non-white - and we are forced to use separate entrances and amenities based on this arbitrary classification.  Although only in the context of a museum, this feels degrading and unjust - a fitting introduction to such a topic.

The museum charts the arrival of the first European settlers, the Great Trek, the Anglo-Boer War, the Union of South Africa, the rise of the National Party, the legislative creation of Apartheid, the protests, the detention without trial, the bannings, the overseas pressure, the release of Mandela, the dawning of democracy and the Truth and Reconciliation Commission.

Parts of the story are harrowing - the footage of 'necklacing' where impimpis (informers) had a tyre filled with petrol placed over their head and set alight, the replica security police detention cells, the 115 nooses hanging from the ceiling representing those political convicts sentenced to death.

Yet the story is also one of hope.  For all of its problems - and they are legion - South Africa has achieved the unachievable.  And it is a story that, however hard, must be told.  Every child must learn of the hatred of the past so they can prevent it happening tomorrow.

The whole experience concludes in a sanctuary garden.  The sign reads:

"Take some time to walk in the garden.

Think about all that has gone before

and all that is yet to come.

Then walk away free."

From cheetah to race relations, education is transforming this wonderful country.

Dompas

Monday 12th September

Kosmos, Hartbeespoort Dam, North West Province

Hartbeespoort Dam

The light slowly fades over the dam, the meat sizzles on the braai, the air is filled with the chorus of birdsong - a relaxing end to a relaxing day.  We haven't ventured out of the lodge today, taking the opportunity to enjoy the sunshine, the hibiscus gardens, the hot tub and the shower with possibly the finest view in the world.

The setting here is magnificent, but is at the same time a bit uncomfortable.  We are in a gated village, where a giant security gate and a slip of paper bearing your credentials decide if you are in or out.  A squatter camp has sprung up outside the gate and supplies the domestic labour to meet the needs of the pass-protected plush residences.

It all feels a little too similar to the pass system under apartheid - only this time I is wealth and social status that defines who is in and who is out.  Having to carry the "pass" at all times gives just a flavour of how degrading that system must have been... but more on that tomorrow.

Generosity and selfishness

Sunday 11th September

Kosmos, Hartbeespoort Dam, North West Province

There's something about staying on a campsite that makes you feel much closer to those around you.  There's a physical closeness in proximity, a common purpose, a shared space, a communal lack of privacy, a common noise, a willingness to lend, share and offer a hand.  I suppose it's a bit like living in a kraal of old.

It has the potential to bring out the best - the stranger offering to help pitch the tent as the light fades - and the worst - badly tuned guitars and campfire singing in the early hours - in people.

And so it is with game driving: there's both a generosity and a selfishness that go hand-in-hand.  Today, as we made our final way through Pilanesberg, we were again alerted to a pride of lions.  There lies the generosity - people really want you to see and experience what they have.

On arriving at the lions - 3 females this time - there was an almighty fight between cars over space on the road from which to see them, including a very abrupt altercation with a car full of Italian men who forced their way in, ticked lion off their list, then forced their way our leaving a trail of chaos in their midst.  Generosity and selfishness side by side.

Giraffe fight, Pilanesberg

A far more interesting altercation came between two giraffe.  They stood side-by-side, hips leaning against one another and used hard, fast blows with their necks to strike each other.  Rather like a boxing match, they threw "dummy" swings and carefully tried to dodge their opponent's offensive.  A solitary female giraffe looked on unimpressed at this war between her suitors.

We watched this transfixed for aa while, moved on, then passed again later to find them still at it.

Leaving Pilanesberg, we returned once more to Hartbeespoort Dam - the only place we have visited on every trip to South Africa.  We indulged in the ritual of queueing up to drive across the dam then queueing up to drive back again.  The hawkers selling their wares to the waiting cars again tried every technique to get your attention - jumping out into the road, pretending to warn you of a flat tyre, dancing, singing, shouting... you name it.  The generosity of the passing tourists is abused by the selfishness of the "charity" collectors, as the charities concerned are completely fictional.

At the market on Hartbeespoort Road, I managed to pick up a second-hand book about Eilta de Klerk - the second wife of FW.  Now, there truly is a story about the tension between generosity and selfishness.

We are spending the next two days at a Balinese inspired lodge in the hill overlooking the dam.  The hill is impossibly steep - the car really struggled to make it up - but the view is spectacular.

One for sorrow?

Saturday 10th September

Manyane, Pilanesberg, North West Province

On visiting Pilanesberg last year, the elephants really stole the show.  This year, we have seen but a few.  In fact, there was not much to be seen at all across the central region - a few impala and the compulsory zebra crossing the road without a hint of irony.

But soon, another driver signalled to us that lions had been spotted in the area.  After making our way to a plateau beside the dam and jostling among the jeeps for space, we got the most magnificent view of a pride of four females with one large-maned male sitting proudly out front.

Lions, Pilanesberg

It's easy to understand why this animal is so admired and feared - it is a glorious sight to behold.  Strong, masterful, majestic - there's no end of clichés for this king of beasts.  It's rather hard to tear ourselves away.

But tear ourselves away we must, for South Africa were about to take on Australia at rugby and we headed back to camp to watch the game on a hastily concocted screen, the single springbok at the side of the road surely a good omen.

One for sorrow?

Alas, not.  Clearly the adage 'one for sorrow' applies to springbok, as South Africa swiftly lost their early lead and were defeated 23-17.  Rugby is close to a religion here, and it was too much for some of our companions to take.  Their violent shouts of "Ag-fuck-man!" said it all.

There's an advert on the radio at the moment which says, "There are two times when it's okay for a boitjie to cry - when the Bokke win and when the Bokke lose" and many such tears were shed this afternoon.

After that, it was back to the game spotting, where rhino were the main sightings - mostly solitary but one large herd of them, which seemed unusual.

Sugar thief

The most amusing scenes were to be found from the restaurant in Pilanesberg Centre, who had placed a salt lick on the veld below their deck.  To our left, a wildebeest and a zebra were fighting over the salt-lick (the wildebeest using its horns, the zebra its hind legs) and to our right, a waiter was trying to tazer the monkeys that were stealing the sachets of sugar.

Cleanliness is godliness

Friday 9th September

Manyane, Pilanesberg, North West Province

We arrived in South Africa at 5am and headed to our hotel, where, due to a booking mix-up, we were put into the Presidential Suite.  No time to enjoy the opulence, however, as sleep was the only thing on the menu.

Suitably refreshed, we headed north to Pilanesberg, quickly re-learning how to drive like a local on the way.  We checked in to a pre-made tent in Manyane Rest Camp on the eastern edge of the reserve.  The tent was equipped with a Bible and a bar of soap - cleanliness literally next to godliness.

Lion, Pilanesberg

With just an hour until sunset, we wondered whether it was worth going for a drive or not, but I am glad we did.  After driving for about 20 minutes and seeing nothing, another driver flagged us down to alert us that there were three lions in the valley.

After a bit of searching, we spotted them - two females and a male majestically strolling into the sunset.  A better picture of Africa could not have been painted.

En route

Thursday 8th September

Bole International Airport, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

The lure of Africa is just too strong and we again find ourselves here.  This time, our journey takes us via Addis Ababa in an attempt to break up the length of the flight.

It has been interesting watching the faces people have pulled when we told them we were flying with Ethiopian Airways.  The sort of face someone might pull if I recount the tale of getting my scrotum caught in my zip.  Yep, that face you just pulled.

We boarded the flight not quite knowing what to expect, and found ourselves on a brand new 787 Dreamliner with the friendliest staff, the tastiest meals and enough legroom to host a small ceilidh.  All-in-all, the most pleasant and enjoyable flight one could ask for.  Never judge a book by its cover and all that.

The airport here in Addis is distinctly African - packed with people, chaotic in nature, decked out like a marketplace and with absolutely no concept of time.  There's nowhere to sit, the queueing system is unfathomable and, well, let's not mention the toilets.

We'll be arriving in Johannesburg in the early hours, and will spend a week in that area visiting some favourite spots before heading to Cape Town to explore pastures new.