The hills are alive...

Monday 15th September

Sudwala Lodge, Mpumalanga

Mac Mac Pools

Coming from Scotland, I'm no stranger to a mountain or two, but the size and extent of those we drove over today fair puts the Cairngorms in their place.

We headed north, past Sabie, and stopped first for a paddle at Mac Mac Pools, natural pools formed from millions of years of water erosion, then at Mac Mac Falls, one of the largest, most impressive waterfalls I've ever seen.  (The photograph does not do it justice!)

This is gold-panning territory, and the name "Mac Mac" is in honour of all the Scottish "MacSomethings" who lost their lives here trying to get rich in the South African gold rush.

Mac Mac Falls

From there, it was on to Graskop to sample the famous "Harrie's Pancakes", and while at first I was sceptical, I must admit to struggling to think of a more enjoyable crepe.

North of there, around the "Panoramic Route", we stopped at "God's Window", a view so dizzyingly high one could be looking down from heaven.

Then, on to Bourke's Luck Potholes: swirling pools of water cut into the rocks by waterfalls where lucky old Bourke dipped his bucket into the pools and pulled it out filled with gold.  There was no gold to be found, and scarcely much water either wing to the exceptionally dry spell being experienced here at present.

Bourke's Luck Potholes

Equally as captivating as the potholes themselves was the troupe of baboons occupying the car parking area, with the alpha male nonchalantly sitting at a picnic bench as though waiting on table service.  (I won't mention how he was keeping himself amused whilst waiting; suffice to say he was one happy baboon!)

Our final stop was at the "Three Rondavels" - a viewpoint overlooking three hills which resemble African rondavel huts.  Formed from red volcanic rock, they had a lime green lichen growing on them which made for an immense splash of colour.

Just as impressive was the opal blue lake which lay below - I had to remind myself that the drop was a few thousand feet to resist the urge to jump in.

It would have been great to explore more of this postcard-picturesque part of the country, but we ran out of daylight, as it very suddenly gets dark at 6pm sharp.

Three Rondavels

While the drive home in the dark was less scenic, it was no less adventurous, as many of the locals seem not to have rear lights, so one was literally never sure what lay round the next corner.


God's Window



The happy baboon