tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-89364715246988740362024-02-18T19:59:40.726-08:00Thereanent...Blogging about life, faith, South Africa and all things thereanent.Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.comBlogger87125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-39020319571950451262021-01-01T08:23:00.003-08:002021-01-01T08:23:21.209-08:00Oh, Vienna!<p>If I were to follow time-honoured tradition, I would have spent this morning watching the New Year Concert from Vienna. But not this year. For you see, Vienna was where this whole nightmare started for us...<br /></p><p>Early in Spring 2020, we set off on a voyage down the Danube, beginning in Vienna. The world was just becoming aware of Covid-19 at that point, but no one seemed overly concerned. As we arrived in Austria, however, the first few isolated cases in Europe were beginning to unfold into something more serious in Northern Italy, so the Austrian authorities closed that border.</p><p>After about a week of enjoying a fairly normal city holiday, and watching the situation in Italy spiral into something tragic, events began to move quicker than we could keep up with them. First, the Austrian government banned gatherings of more than 50 people as a precautionary measure. (There were still no confirmed cases within Austria at this point.) That meant we had to cancel our trip to the Zoo, but hey-ho, 'tis but a mild inconvenience. The next day, they closed most indoor attractions - museums, places of worship, concert halls. Fine. Not much to do, but at least there is lots of open space to wander in.</p><p>Then it happened. Austria detected its first cases in some faraway ski resorts. We were in a swimming pool and thermal spa when the news came. (Where, incidentally, I had already suffered the indignity of having my swimming shorts stolen while in a sauna, and had to seek help in all my nakedness across the language divide.) We were promptly ushered out - the government had issued tougher restrictions on gatherings and almost all indoor spaces were now off-limits. We were soon to learn that neighbouring countries began to close land borders, which presented us with a bit of a hiccup given that our next destinations were Slovakia and Hungary, and that our flight home now lay on the other side of a closed border.</p><p>Let's get out of here, we thought. Luckily, we managed to secure seats on a flight to Edinburgh on the Tuesday morning (this was Saturday). Hooray. We had to be out of our flat on the Monday, but finding a night's accommodation should be no big deal. We polished off the last of the food in the cupboards and began letting people know our amended travel plans.</p><p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0kvEfRE-DfjTTgd4CjA1eQJcBhNgJH2NqTiR4_K8812ffAU19b68-xJpssEuTFFVKt-EXHcwwb6oKAEz8afghOn33L7OuqzPSCBuFVsnjr_Kt9U_v8O0G3Lym6f9XXkAcK6f1pZg1gWrK/s2048/IMG_20200314_133429.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0kvEfRE-DfjTTgd4CjA1eQJcBhNgJH2NqTiR4_K8812ffAU19b68-xJpssEuTFFVKt-EXHcwwb6oKAEz8afghOn33L7OuqzPSCBuFVsnjr_Kt9U_v8O0G3Lym6f9XXkAcK6f1pZg1gWrK/s320/IMG_20200314_133429.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">About 2 hours before the shutdown.</td></tr></tbody></table>Next day, we decided to make the most of it. It was cold but sunny, so headed out to some open parkland for a walk, and to get some views over the city from the tower. As we began to feel peckish, we headed back towards the city for some lunch, and found a lovely tavern offering schnitzel as dish of the day. Ideal. The waitress showed us to our table, and I was in the process of taking my jacket off, when out came the manager shouting in German and throwing the customers out. Bewildered by what was going on, we eventually managed through a combination of three languages to establish from some of the other disgruntled diners that the Prime Minister had just announced the immediate closure of all restaurants, bars, shops,... well, everything.</p><p>A full lockdown had been declared. Everything closed faster than you could imagine. Police were stationed at the gates of children's play parks to ensure that no one entered them. And we didn't get our lunch. That wouldn't have been much of an issue, except for the fact that we had scoffed every last crumb of food in our possession and, being a Sunday, all food shops were closed for the day. So here we were, out on our ear in the middle of the day with no way of obtaining food until Monday morning. We've got ourselves into predicaments around food when travelling before (<a href="http://thereanent.blogspot.com/2015/09/off-roading-in-vw-polo.html">like the time we accidentally went off-roading in a Volkwagen Polo far from any source of sustenance</a>), but having a hungry two-year-old and no food to offer them is altogether more scary.</p><p>That's when I remembered that the street our flat was on backed on to a motorway service station - perhaps that would still be open! It was, but the shelves of the petrol station looked like the pasta asiles back home - not a thing on them. There was, however, a drive-thru McDonalds, so (since we had no vehicle in which to drive-thru) by slightly comical means, food was obtained to see us through the night. It was while scoffing down my McNuggets that we learned of the next set-back: Austria was to close its airspace at midnight the following day - seven hours before our flight home. All the land borders were already closed, so escape by train was not possible. It simply became a case of try to get on a flight to somewhere. Anywhere.</p><p>By a stroke of luck, three seats became available on a previously fully-booked flight to Stansted the following night - the penultimate flight out of the country before it was completely sealed off. The following morning, I made my one legal trip outside to acquire multiple baguettes from the bakery on the corner to se us through the day, and then we left our little flat behind and made our way to the airport, where we hunkered down with our stale baguettes for the remaining twelve hours until the flight.</p><p>The sense of relief at boarding the flight was short lived. With every seat filled, there were still 12 passengers stood in the aisle with non-existent seat numbers. It transpired that we should have been on a 737, but it was stuck behind some other closed border, so they were using an A320 instead - which had two rows of seats fewer. By the time they had escorted the understandably livid (and now stranded) twelve passengers from the plane, this had put one member of the cabin crew over the length of time they were allowed to work. This meant not enough crew to safely operate the flight, so it would have to be cancelled. With 30 minutes to go until the only way out of Austria for the next few months was closed off.</p><p>In the manner of a straight-to-video production, our hero then rose from a seat half-way down the plane and pressed the call bell, saving us all. It turns out she was an off-duty member of cabin crew for the same airline, and was happy to sit in the vacant rear facing seat and perform the necessary safety duties. With eleven minutes to spare before airspace closure, we finally left Vienna behind. The flight from then on became even more like an episode of an ITV2 comedy as they ran out of food, drink and soap before we were even an hour in. It was about to become a bit more serious, however. </p><p>There was a call to one of the cabin crew, who rallied all her team (including the new recruit) for a meting behind the curtain. The seatbelt sign came on. The captain came over the intercom: "This is your captain speaking. Return to your seats and read the safety card." The cabin crew strapped themselves in and did not move again for the remainder of the flight. We never did find out what that chilling announcement was about, but when we landed, four fire engines swept in behind us and followed us down the runway. A couple of minutes later, they departed, and we all disembarked as if nothing strange had happened.</p><p>Having been through this lockdown experience in Austria, which had very few cases, it was rather astonishing to arrive back in the UK, which had by this time many more cases, and find that life was carrying on as normal - unlike his cautionary Austrian counterpart, our Prime Minister was rushing round hospitals shaking hands with people and telling us we'd all be fine if we sang Happy Birthday while performing our ablutions. The end of our journey was clearly just the beginning...</p>Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-84916714110233629342018-02-16T02:23:00.000-08:002018-02-16T02:23:31.091-08:00What kind of man is this?Yesterday, South Africa welcomed its fifth President since the advent of democracy in 1994.<br />
<br />
The first such President was Nelson Mandela, Nobel Peace Prize winner and internationally renowned statesman who bridged the racial divide to unite a new nation at a time when civil war seemed like an inevitability. The "Mandela magic" was quite a surreal effect, and everyone knew he would be a tough act to follow.<br />
<br />
That task fell to Thabo Mbeki, under whose watch the South African economy grew and service delivery improved. At the same time, however, power was increasingly centered around the Presidency, as Mbeki became more and more controlling. His unorthodox views on the link between HIV and AIDS prevented millions from receiving the anti-retroviral drugs they needed, and he earned the scorn of the international community for refusing to condemn Zimbabwean President Robert Mugabe. Mbeki fired his deputy Jacob Zuma after he was embroiled in a corruption scandal surrounding an arms deal.<br />
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Zuma went on to win the ANC leadership, and saw to it that the party removed Mbeki from office. Kgalema Mothlanthe was installed as "Caretaker President" until the next election.<br />
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And so, in 2009, Zuma assumed office. His tenure as President has seen the rand slip to record lows, state-owned enterprises be stripped of their talent and capital and the criminal justice establishment removed of its teeth. Together with the wealthy Gupta family, Zuma has enriched himself at the cost of ordinary South Africans. The rich have become richer, the poor have become poorer. Crucial positions like the Public Protector and National Director of Public Prosecutions have been filled with Zuma-friendly candidates, and he replaced one of the world's most respected Finance Ministers in an attempt to raid the National Treasury. The Zuma house of cards came tumbling down in spectacular style this week, leading to the election and swearing-in of President Cyril Ramaphosa yesterday.<br />
<br />
So what kind of man are we dealing with? Is he in the mould of Mandela, Mbeki or Zuma?<br />
<br />
Ramaphosa first came to prominence in the 1970s as a leader of the Student Christian Movement, very much aligned with the "black consciousness" philosophy and served periods of detention and solitary confinement for his politics. After qualifying in law, he went on to work for the Council of Unions of South Africa and was selected by them to establish the first major union for black mineworkers. He not only became the first Secretary General of the National Union of Mineworkers, but won official recognition for the union with Anglo American and the Chamber of Mines. He became famous as a skilled negotiator who did much to improve the lives of poor black mineworkers. His work with the NUM led him into contact with the ANC, where he quickly rose to prominence.<br />
<br />
He formed part of the National Reception Committee which prepared for the release of Nelson Mandela <span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">(watch footage of Mandela's first speech after his release - the man holding the microphone is none other than Cyril Ramaphosa) a</span>nd soon after became the ANC's Secretary General. He headed up the ANC's negotiations to form an interim constitution to bring about the first fully democratic elections.<br />
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It is well documented that Ramaphosa was Mandela's favoured successor, but that the ANC wanted Mbeki instead. Ramaphosa took on the job as Chair of the Constitutional Assembly, and led the drafting of what is widely regarded as the world's most progressive human rights based constitutions. When this task was done, feeling snubbed by Mbeki, he left frontline politics and entered the world of business, tasked by Mandela of establishing ways of black economic empowerment.<br />
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Beginning with zero capital, Ramaphosa wound up on the boards of several companies, most notably Johnnic, which had been sold off from Anglo American. He later went on to found his own investment vehicle Shandkua and has become one of the wealthiest businessmen in South Africa, at one time owning the entire McDonald's franchise.<br />
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In 2012, he saw the opportunity to return to frontline politics and was elected Deputy President of the ANC and subsequently the country. He played the long game during his Deputy Presidency, keeping his eyes on the prize as President, a position he won at the ANC elective conference in December based on his platform of rooting out the corruption of the Zuma years. Just two months after his election, he has managed to remove Zuma from the Presidency of the country in a way that exposes his true character, he has replaced the board at state-owned power utility Eskom and he has given assurances of independence to law enforcement authorities allowing them to arrest, among others, many from the Gupta empire. South Africa's clean up is underway.<br />
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It is notable that in his short speech accepting his election as President of the Republic yesterday, he reached out to all opposition leaders by name, inviting them to meet with him and eat with him to find a solution to the country's problems. He made telling references to the values of Nelson Mandela. He pledged to support nation building and reconciliation and to fight corruption and criminality. As MPs from both sides of the house queued up to hug and congratulate him, it felt like the magic of 1994 was back.<br />
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Cyril Ramaphosa is a shrewd politician, tough negotiator and formidable businessman. But above all, he is a constitutionalist and will fight to the end to ensure that South Africa's non-racist, non-sexist democracy succeeds. Four Presidents late, Mandela's wish has been granted.Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-11594317566348522982017-12-31T09:06:00.001-08:002017-12-31T09:20:22.052-08:00Strong and stable covfefe<h3>
2017 in review</h3>
Take a look at any look-back at this year's events and it would be easy to conclude that 2017 was a stinker. But I'd like to throw in some optimism and suggest that maybe it wasn't such a bad year after all.<br />
<br />
Okay, okay... there's the Trump thing, not to mention North Korea. And Brexit is going about as well as can be expected. Then there was the fall from grace of my one-time hero Aung San Suu-Kyi. Not forgetting [insert your pet political grumble here]. I get it. But hear me out. Mugabe is no longer in power (granted that Mnangagwa may not be much better, but still), Zuma no longer leads the ANC (and hence, hopefully, will soon no-longer <strike>loot</strike> lead South Africa), UKIP has all but disappeared and Steps went on tour again. Personally, it was quite a good year too. I built a staircase and obtained my reindeer drivers' license (seriously).<br />
<br />
Oh, and I became a father.<br />
<br />
That's right... whatever the doom-peddlers may say, 2017 was a good year as the world welcomed this little bundle:<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaKZdZnmGZ0KChHaK3RCte8EFaTaZfLIgfVnXil1ZyjPi0TrjpvSFe9WMS37dPl8-E3_4VTafKLdttiZgheAtknhMSKvocFkVqt4lku-ga_3IIIeVvKZrYwvyYM3lY8w8ljg9wPw4raeVc/s1600/4FA980EA-6A83-4933-9A87-33D22B7B0DE0.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="899" data-original-width="1600" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaKZdZnmGZ0KChHaK3RCte8EFaTaZfLIgfVnXil1ZyjPi0TrjpvSFe9WMS37dPl8-E3_4VTafKLdttiZgheAtknhMSKvocFkVqt4lku-ga_3IIIeVvKZrYwvyYM3lY8w8ljg9wPw4raeVc/s320/4FA980EA-6A83-4933-9A87-33D22B7B0DE0.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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It gives an opportunity to put things in perspective. Let me take you back to the early hours a September Friday morning...<br />
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I'm just in bed, having been sent away from the hospital as a spare part, when the phone rings. This is it: the moment. It was hard to make out the exact instruction through all the screams and profanities, but the gist was something like 'make haste to the labour suite'.<br />
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As I arrive and try to accept the reality of the situation, before I have the chance to do anything, the midwife calls me over to the side to warn me that already things are not looking straightforward. There is a problem with baby's heartbeat, and a range of scenarios could ensue.<br />
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She takes me through her scenario-planning: if <i>x</i> happens, then <i>y</i> could happen, so we better do <i>z</i> just in case. Then again, if <i>a</i> happens, we'd have to do <i>b</i> so I'm going to prepare <i>c</i> just in case. Then again,<i> d</i>, <i>e</i> and <i>f</i> might all happen, and that would spell real trouble, so I've got <i>g</i> and <i>h</i> standing by. <br />
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"Do you play chess?" I ask her, hoping that levity will relieve the gravity of the situation. "If you don't, you should."<br />
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The clock ticks forward, and more and more complicated pieces of monitoring equipment are attached and inserted as a stream of medics visit, look at the graphs and suck in through their teeth like a mechanic who is about to tell you the cylinder head has gone. The various alarms and people racing from the room suggest there are several emergencies on the go at once.<br />
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"I've called in the on-call surgeon, just in-case," says the chess-playing midwife. "And I've asked the Sick Kids to send out a paediatric emergency team."<br />
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It all sounds very serious, yet no-one is worried because this midwife appears to be super-woman. There is surely no possible scenario she hasn't got a plan for.<br />
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In comes a consultant to look at the monitor, and before we know what's going on, everyone is whisked away down a labyrinth of corridors to theatre, and I'm thrown some scrubs to change in to. It's all very ER.<br />
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Thirteen people it took to bring this one little life into the world: nine midwives, surgeons, anaesthetists and others in theatre, and two paediatric emergency doctors stood with me at the side. In the end, they aren't needed, as the moment he's delivered, he's as healthy a baby as they've seen. We all share a moment of gratitude that everything is well, thanks to this 13-strong medical team brought together by the chess-playing midwife.<br />
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It's hard not to think back to that night. The harsh reality is that at any earlier time in history, mother and/or baby may not have survived this ordeal. The harsher reality is that in most other parts of the world, such a team of specialists would be unaffordable, if available at all.<br />
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That we still, over 50 years later, have a National Health Service, free at the point of need, that can perform these most miraculous of acts daily is something for which we should be most grateful. 2017's not been so bad after all, has it?<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Unrelated Post Script: A glance at the statistics of this blog reveals that there has been a sudden surge in visitors in recent months, all of them from Russia. I don't know what I've done to rouse your interest, but Привет whoever you are.Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-54874274444317984192017-12-15T02:07:00.000-08:002017-12-15T02:07:34.187-08:00It's time to take an interest (again)If you are of a certain age, I'd be willing to bet you did your part in the anti-apartheid campaign. Maybe you boycotted South African apples, moved money out of South African-linked investments or filled the cleverly re-named Nelson Mandela Place in a protest march. Perhaps you watched the 'Free Mandela' concert from Wembley, bought the song by The Specials or signed a petition to keep South African cricketers out of the UK. In lots of small ways, the people of the UK came together and condemned this crime against humanity.<br />
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If, like me, you're a little too young to be involved in all of that, then perhaps your seminal memories involve watching Nelson Mandela walk through the gates of Victor Verster Prison to freedom, or seeing him sworn in as South Africa's first democratically elected president, or watching him work his magic at the 1995 Rugby World Cup final, or hearing the accounts at the Truth & Reconciliation Commission... I could go on.<br />
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The fact is, that for several decades, the UK - and Scotland in particular - was caught up in the fight of black South Africans for their emancipation. We followed their struggle, did what little we could to help and then rejoiced as the miracle of the "rainbow nation" unfolded.<br />
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Here's the thing, though: the time has come for us to get stuck in again. The miracle has been coming undone. Through a corrupt and reckless president, the last decade has seen the lives of ordinary South Africans plunged into despair, racial tensions re-stoked and Mandela's legacy trashed. Desmond Tutu has described it as "worse than the apartheid government" - at least we would have expected it of them, he cries. And yet, we in the UK are paying no interest. But we should be...<br />
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Most people are shocked and stunned by Donal Trump's disinformation campaigns and use of "fake news" as propaganda to further his narrow cause, but on another continent, one Jacob G. Zuma has been doing the very same since he seized power at the 2007 ANC conference through what courts have now shown to be lies and deceit. He engineered the removal of Thabo Mbeki as president of the country and established for himself a patronage network that has in the process destroyed parliament, cabinet, the Treasury, the Revenue Service, the police, the prosecutions service and the rule of law. He has ensured that he and his network get richer, while the poor get poorer. And the price to maintain this power? Re-igniting the racial divisions of the past that Mandela's generation worked so hard to overcome.<br />
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Why should this matter to us? Why should we again take up the cause? The answer is simple: this is all being made possible because of UK companies.<br />
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British PR company Bell Pottinger masterminded a campaign blaming South Africa's woes on "white monopoly capital" and gave Zuma the racial narrative he was looking for. As they profited from sowing division, we in the UK turned a blind eye. (Since this was uncovered, Bell Pottinger has gone into administration - <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-41245719">http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-41245719</a>.)<br />
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KPMG was then found to have been involved in lending legitimacy to the regime and its associates through what it admits were "deficiencies" in its auditing of accounts associated with Zuma which "fell considerably short" of the required standards. (More here: <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/media/2017/sep/15/bell-pottinger-fallout-deepens-kpmg-chiefs-south-africa">https://www.theguardian.com/media/2017/sep/15/bell-pottinger-fallout-deepens-kpmg-chiefs-south-africa</a>.)<br />
<br />
The Serious Fraud Office is investigating the use of HSBC and Standard Chartered accounts to launder money. (See <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-41672793">http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-41672793</a>.) Peter Hain has claimed that HSBC ignored warnings that this was going on (<a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-41835937">http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-41835937</a>). He also claims that Barclays and Santander need to check whether they have had any accounts used (<a href="https://www.fin24.com/Economy/british-peer-calls-for-london-based-bank-accounts-of-soes-to-be-investigated-20171206">https://www.fin24.com/Economy/british-peer-calls-for-london-based-bank-accounts-of-soes-to-be-investigated-20171206</a>).<br />
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I could go on at some length...<br />
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The point is that 10 years before Trump burst on to the scene, JZ was using the same tactics in another hemisphere. The UK has become bound up in his network of corruption and propaganda, and its time that we, who took such an interest in the anti-apartheid movement - did something about it to safeguard the freedoms secured by the Mandela generation.<br />
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But what could we do? Rock concerts and apple boycotts won't achieve much this time round. But we could investigate whether the companies we have money in have any links to Zuma or his associates the Guptas, and move it if they do. We could lobby our foreign office to take a tougher stance against the stoking of racial tensions for personal gain. But most importantly, we could take an interest. During the days of apartheid, South Africans drew strength for their struggle from knowing that millions across the world stood in solidarity with them. They need to know the same now. So lets inform ourselves (start by watching these episodes of HARDtalk: <a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/search?q=hardtalk south africa&search_group_id=urn:bbc:programmes:b006mg2m" target="_blank">https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/search?q=hardtalk south africa&search_group_id=urn:bbc:programmes:b006mg2m</a>) and take an interest once again.<br />
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P.S. The ANC conference to elect Zuma's successor begins tomorrow. The two leading candidates are Zuma's ex-wife Nkosazana Dlamini-Zuma and Nelson Mandela's favoured choice as his own successor, Cyril Ramaphosa. It would seem that the best hope to reclaim the principles of democracy would be a Ramaphosa victory. Watch with interest...Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-86504034097006478522017-10-20T04:30:00.000-07:002017-10-20T04:30:12.185-07:00European Venn Diagram<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJjcjO9Dh40GrxwHwzd-rnAXPOBzIv8DLyXumN2IjMF1J85jsDxKiM8dsQ-_xUJv6T_HmAaOx40zgsHSOHlZTEzI1dhToToa2nqNThJxUa0kX_Fs2w1a_G_jHBbL79EmR4gNhZvho1VFA4/s1600/Brussels+114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJjcjO9Dh40GrxwHwzd-rnAXPOBzIv8DLyXumN2IjMF1J85jsDxKiM8dsQ-_xUJv6T_HmAaOx40zgsHSOHlZTEzI1dhToToa2nqNThJxUa0kX_Fs2w1a_G_jHBbL79EmR4gNhZvho1VFA4/s320/Brussels+114.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">European Parliament Visitor Centre</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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A number of years ago, I visited the European Parliament in Brussels. They have an excellent visitor centre which explains the history and current status of European institutions in as dynamic a manner as possible.</div>
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Before visiting, I don't think I had realised just how complex the European settlement is. I tended only to think of "The EU" and was perhaps vaguely cognisant of the terms "Council of Europe" and "Single Market", but hadn't given any thought as to how the whole thing fits together. I think the same is true of most of us - we think of the mythical beast that is "Brussels" rather than its web of complex associations.</div>
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The truth is that Europe is a hotch-potch of treaties and diplomatic agreements, and different countries have joined in - or not - as suits their circumstances. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Take, for example, the Eurozone. Most EU member states have joined in, but the UK, along with eight other members, has not. Then there's the Shengen Agreement, allowing borderless travel, which has been signed up to by all but six member states, along with five non-member states. Then there's Cyprus and Ireland who're in the Euro but not in Schengen. But Monaco is in Schengen, but not in the EU. And it mints the Euro but is not in the Eurozone. Like San Marino - though that is not in Schengen. But it is in the Customs Union.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
This is all before we've even considered the rival body to the EU - the European Free Trade Area (EFTA). Membership of each is mutually exclusive. EFTA members are currently Iceland, Lichtenstein, Norway and Switzerland. They're all in Schengen, and three of the 4 have joined all of the EU in the European Economic Area, or Single Market. But Switzerland hasn't. It is in EFTA and Shengen, but not the EEA. And I've not even mentioned the Central European Free Trade Area or the Organisation for Security and Co-operation in Europe, which has such famously European members as the USA and Canada.</div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
This could become very complicated to explain. What's that, you say? You're crying out for a Venn diagram? I am only too happy to oblige:</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitIisz3Md49QdQ9_UpYZBjvJ89s-LbVVAprOkQqiQr6ZxEjmMhzPev8GkA5UzKNDDhWaLQr2CU9Sd5vMkHzZXCmNZNP4UuYx8giXCJPj-AJl4TF1VzjthTaL4cTnd7_tguD2w5epRZfR4B/s1600/Europe+Venn+Diagram+-+Options.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitIisz3Md49QdQ9_UpYZBjvJ89s-LbVVAprOkQqiQr6ZxEjmMhzPev8GkA5UzKNDDhWaLQr2CU9Sd5vMkHzZXCmNZNP4UuYx8giXCJPj-AJl4TF1VzjthTaL4cTnd7_tguD2w5epRZfR4B/s640/Europe+Venn+Diagram+-+Options.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The UK has voted to leave the inner orange section of the diagram. The question is where we end up. It seems to me that there are four possible locations for Britain once we leave the EU, as indicated on the diagram in increasing degrees of separation from the EU:</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
1. This would see us defect from the EU to EFTA and staying inside the Single Market, but unlike the other countries with this deal, we would remain outside the Schengen area. This is often referred to as the "Norway" model.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
2. The "Switzerland" model, we would leave the EEA, but through membership of EFTA would still have relatively free access to trade.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
3. This would see us leave the EEA but remain in the EU Customs Union. Looking at the other bed-fellows in this position, I'm not sure the "Turkey" model or "Andorra" model have quite the same appeal as Norway or Switzerland.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
4. This seems to be the position the government are aiming for - outside of the EU, EEA and Customs Union. Again, though, my eyes are drawn to the other states in the same section of the diagram. Does any of these countries have an economic model or trading relationship we want to emulate? Albania, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Georgia, Macedonia, Moldova, Montenegro, Russia, Serbia, Ukraine.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I haven't even considered complications such as the need for a common travel area with Ireland. Perhaps, as is so often the European way, a new circle will be drawn at the eleventh hour. But if option four is where we are headed, we cannot continue to ignore the economic and political reality of becoming a European outsider.</div>
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Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-4593797403495367282017-04-01T10:22:00.000-07:002017-04-01T10:22:36.177-07:00Funeral PoliticsMy granny held very firmly to the manta that money, politics and sex were not things to be openly discussed, and it would be a tremendous faux pas if any of them reared their head at as public an occasion as a funeral. In fact, as anyone with any experience of planning or leading a funeral will know, there is often a lot of time and energy spent on ensuring that politics - including intra-family politics - doesn't raise its head. Even the most outspoken of political speakers would agree that it would be disrespectful to use a memorial service as a platform for political rallying.<br />
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All of this might be true in a privileged Western context, but in many societies, funerals offer the only opportunity for resistance to oppression. This was very much the case during apartheid South Africa. With political gatherings, town hall meetings, liberation movements and most political parties banned by an increasingly authoritarian government, funerals were one of the only mass gatherings still permitted by law. And so, the funeral became the place from which the freedom struggle rallied its troops. <br />
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This was not in the least bit disrespectful to the deceased, in fact it often carried out their direct wishes. The funeral as a political rally was seen as keeping alive the spirit of the departed. If you've never seen the film <i>Cry Freedom</i>, take a look at the scene from Steve Biko's funeral to get a feel for what these occasions were like:<br />
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Of course, this type of scene has not been seen since the fall of apartheid twenty-seven years ago. Until, that is, the events of this week...<br />
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Followers of my blog may have noted the corruption that exists within President Jacob Zuma's South Africa, with government influence and cash going to the wealthy Gupta brothers. The main stumbling block to this 'State Capture' was the diligent and incorruptible Minister of Finance Pravin Gordhan. Zuma has been trying for over a year to find a way to get Gordhan out of the way - he's even had him arrested on trumped-up charges.<br />
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This week, Zuma signalled he was going to simply go for the nuclear option and fire Gordhan without reason. As Gordhan landed in London on Monday for meetings with investors, Zuma summoned him home and it was clear a replacement was being lined up.<br />
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Then, on Tuesday, stalwart of the freedom struggle and fellow prisoner of Nelson Mandela, Ahmed Kathrada, died. As a Muslim, he had to be buried the next day, and his burial service on Wednesday quickly became a political rally against Zuma's plans - the family said Zuma was not welcome, Gordhan was given a standing ovation, former President Kgalema Motlanthe quoted Kathrada's own call for Zuma to step down. Nonetheless, a full state memorial for Kathrada was planned for today in Soweto.<br />
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At midnight on Thursday, Zuma fired Gordhan, his deputy and every other minister who had ever disagreed with them. The ANC made clear that it did not support its own President in this. At the same time, the presidency callously cancelled the state memorial for Kathrada, fearing it would be too political.<br />
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So, the Ahmed Kathrada and Nelson Mandela Foundations held their own memorial today, attended by as diverse a crowd as South Africa has ever seen, and what a gathering it was! Christian prayer opened a Muslim funeral, the Communist Party and business leaders called on one another for support, and the ANC writ large called on its own President to resign.<br />
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Many have criticised the funeral as being too political and disrespectful, but it was continuing the debate that 'Uncle Kathy' had himself begun a year ago. Watch, for example, the address by Kathrada's widow, Barbara Hogan:<br />
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The event was filled with the anti-apartheid cries of "Amandla! Awethu!" (Power! To the people!) and "The people shall govern!" Freedom songs were sung, Kathrada and Mandela's legacy called upon and it culminated in an address from Gordhan himself, "unashamedly" calling for mass mobilisation of the people against a corrupt and securocratic regime:<br />
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Perhaps a political funeral was Uncle Kathy's parting gift to South Africa. It certainly engendered a mood of optimism that justice will prevail, and united South African's of all backgrounds in a way that we've not seen since the times of Madiba.Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-7835067673771064512016-12-17T14:18:00.001-08:002016-12-17T14:18:54.340-08:00ThereanentI'm periodically asked about the name of this blog. What is "thereanent"?<br />
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Is it <i>the re-anent</i>, as in "she tried the re-anent, but it did not work" or "he went to the re-anent but found it empty"?<br />
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Could it be <i>there an ent</i>, as in the Morningside pronunciation of "over there, an ant hill once stood"?<br />
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Or is it<i> therean ent</i>, an entrainment company specialising is metamorphosing into animals?<br />
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It is, of course, none of these things. It is simply a wonderful Scots word, used largely in legal (and ecclesiastical) circles:<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">thereanent</span></b> (<span class="pron type-">ˈðɛərəˈnɛnt)</span><br />
<span class="pron type-">adv. <i>Scottish</i> in reference to; concerning</span><br />
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<span class="pron type-"><br /></span></div>
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It is one in a long line of such words, which are in a sad and steady decline in usage. This blog is named in a subtle attempt to keep alive that particular line of Scots Presbyterianese, the use of which would make our language much more vibrant, as the following tale illustrates:<br />
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In order to execute its quinquennial attestation of terms, the Glossarial Assembly met in hunc effectum, pursuant to adjournment. Instanter, proceedings were sisted when it was brought to the attention of the Moderator that "anent" had, inter alia, been omitted from the sederunt, the Assembly thus failing to be quorate.<br />
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An ad hoc committee being formed pro re nata, precognition was sought from all interested parties. Some alleged "anent" had fallen into desuetude, others that it was merely an adherent and others that it had no locus standi in the Assembly. Still others overturedd that in making such enquiries, the committee was acting ultra vires.<br />
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Parties were cited to appear in their interest, and an edict duly served. The ad hoc committee presented a fama clamosa in which was revealed a deliberate plot to debar "anent", most certainly an act of contumacy. There compeared "anent" who petitioned to be readmitted to the sederunt.<br />
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It was counter-moved that this was superfluous, "anent" being engrained by consuetude into the lexicon. While this held prima facie, it did not satisfy production.<br />
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As per the deliverance proposed by the committee, it was moved, seconded and agreed that there be added to the sederunt ad vitam aut culpam, sine mora, "anent" and all terms thereanent.</div>
Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-74910367503370304552016-11-28T04:38:00.002-08:002016-11-28T04:38:46.558-08:00Come on IreneAcross South Africa, and the world, an unexpected hope has arisen that by the end of today, Jacob Zuma may have been recalled as president of the ANC, and subsequently the country.<br />
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The party's National Executive Committee has been meeting in Irene, where on Saturday night Tourism Minister Derek Hanekom surprised everyone by tabling a motion for Zuma to step down. He is supported by at least three other prominent members of cabinet. The motion was filibustered until yesterday, to try and get as many Zuma supporters as possible present, and then they announced that the conference would be extended until today - and we are told it will go on "very late".<br />
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It seems something is definitely afoot. Zuma can no longer rely on the full support of his NEC. His days are numbered, but hopes that he will be removed today may be a little premature. Why? There is simply too much at stake. JZ has drawn those around him into a web of corruption and state capture, and those closest to him know that when he goes, their careers will also be on the line.<br />
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Take, for example, Minister of Cooperative Government Des van Rooyen - the one who Zuma made Finance Minister for all of three days. He has lodged himself firmly in the Zupta camp, even going so far as to launch two legal bids to stop the release of the State of Capture report. Any future president could not keep him in their cabinet.<br />
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Nor could they keep any others implicated in dodgy dealings with the Gupta family, such as Minister of Mineral Resources Mosebenzi Zwane.<br />
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Or Nathi Nhleko, the Minister of Police, who found that Zuma's swimming pool was actually a fire extinguisher, and his chicken coup a security measure. No one other than JZ would allow him to remain in his position.<br />
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Or what about Shaun Abrahams, head of the National Prosecuting Authority, who brought phoney charges against Minister of Finance Pravin Gordhan to try and pave the way for JZ to remove him from office, collapsing the value of the rand in the process.<br />
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Or Hlaudi Mostoeneng, CEO of Corporate Affairs at SABC who had been found to have lied about his qualifications, yet as a JZ supporter remains in post.<br />
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Even new Public Protector Busisiwe Mkwebane has firmly nailed her colours to the Zuma mast, even going so far as to lay trumped-up charges against her predecessor in a bid to discredit the work of Thuli Madonsela.<br />
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These are just the tip of the iceberg. The cabinet, SABC, SAA, Eskom and countless other state owned enterprises will have to come under new leadership when Zuma is gone.<br />
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No wonder they are trying every last ditch attempt to keep him, despite the damage that would do to the country. We can only hope and pray that common sense and a sense of justice prevail in the NECs discussions. To mis-quote Dexy's Midnight Runners, "Come on Irene" - the world awaits your decision.Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-4497404505628046812016-10-31T11:34:00.000-07:002016-10-31T11:34:40.293-07:00Last tango in Pretoria?
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">South African President Jacob Zuma loves to dance.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">He has certainly led the country and the governing
ANC a merry dance, playing footloose and fancy free with the country’s hard-won
constitution.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Fired by Thabo Mbeki from his role as deputy president in
2007 when facing corruption charges, Zuma’s legal quickstep saw him elected ANC
President, the prosecution against him dropped on a flimsy technicality and
Mbeki ousted as president, all preparing the way for Zuma to take the floor
after the 2009 election.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Steps were quickly taken to ensure that the institutions of
state danced to Zuma’s tune – the Scorpions investigative unit (which brought
the corruption charges against him) was disbanded, Zuma allies were placed into
key roles such as the head of the National Prosecuting Authority (which
promptly dropped all charges against him), government contracts were awarded to
Zuma-linked companies, his private homestead at Nkandla was enriched using
taxpayers money and privileges were granted to his friends in the Gupta family,
who even used a South African Air Force base to land their private plane for a
wedding.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Through scandals of corruption, maladministration and even
sex, Zuma sidestepped the blame and waltzed cheerfully onwards as if nothing
had happened.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Only two state institutions refused to get into step with the
twinkle-toed president: The Treasury and the Public Protector.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Both have been in a long dance-off with Zuma
which was due to reach its crescendo this week in two high-profile court cases.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">When Zuma appointed Advocate Thuli Madonsela to the ombudsman
role of Public Protector seven years ago, she was largely unheard of and not
thought to present much of a risk to his plans.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Nothing could have turned out further from the truth.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Madonsela ruthlessly investigated cases
against Zuma brought to her and was not afraid to stand up to the machinery of
government in issuing her findings.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">In one of the most publicised cases, her <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Secure in Comfort</i> report revealed the spending of millions of rand
on building a swimming pool, amphitheatre, chicken coup, cattle kraal and
visitors’ centre at his private home in Nkandla – all billed to the taxpayer as
‘security upgrades’.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>She ordered that
Zuma should pay back a fitting proportion of the money, and so began a legal
battle as dramatic and passionate as an Argentine Tango.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">In a landmark judgement, the Constitutional Court ruled that
Madonsela’s findings were binding, and that the President and parliament had
violated the constitution by not carrying out her remedial actions.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">As Madonsela’s term of office drew to a close in October, she
found herself in another legal battle with Jacob Zuma.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>On her final day in the job, she was due to
release her findings into allegations of ‘state capture’ brought about when
Deputy Finance Minister Mcebisi Jonas and MP Vytjie Mentor revealed that they
had been offered cabinet promotions by members of the Gupta family.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Just hours before Madonsela was due to release the report,
Zuma launched a court bid to interdict the report, claiming he did not have
enough time to respond to her findings.<span style="margin: 0px;">
</span>The case will be heard on November 1<sup>st</sup>, with Madonsela’s
(Zuma-appointed) successor Busisiwe Mkwebane already saying she will not oppose
his bid to block the report.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Minister
Des van Rooyen also made a bid to block it, withdrew it and reinstated it again
today.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>His favoured dance is clearly the
hokey-cokey – in, out, in out…</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">The following day, November 2<sup>nd</sup>, the Pretoria
Regional Court was due to hear charges of fraud brought against Finance
Minister Pravin Gordhan.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Gordhan was not Zuma’s choice for Finance Minister and is
somewhat of a thorn in the side.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>There
have long been tensions between the treasury and the presidency, as the former
tried to keep check on the excesses of the latter.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>This led to Zuma spontaneously firing
respected Finance Minister Nhlanhla Nene in December last year, to replace him
with a more pliable dance partner in the form of Des van Rooyen.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">The ANC leadership, however, smelt a rat as the value of the
rand plunged, and forced Zuma into replacing van Rooyen just three days later
with safe pair of hands Pravin Gordhan.<span style="margin: 0px;">
</span>Since then, Zuma has had every organ of state looking for a way to
remove Gordhan from his position.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">The best they came up with is an allegation that Gordhan
committed fraud during his time at the South African Revenue Service by
authorising the early retirement of a commissioner.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>The charges against Gordhan were clearly
politically motivated, and were withdrawn at the last moment by National
Director of Public Prosecutions Shaun Abrahams who clearly finds the heat of
the dancefloor too much.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">This week sees a political Paso Doble played out in the
courts.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>The rulings will determine
whether or not South Africa’s constitutional democracy and rule of law stand
firm.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Could this be Zuma’s last waltz?<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Or will he be allowed to continue his jolly
jig all the way to the bank?</span></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike>Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-53777029732295247992016-10-25T09:27:00.000-07:002016-10-25T09:27:09.949-07:00Saying "totsiens"<h2>
Tuesday 27th September</h2>
<h3>
Bole International Airport, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia</h3>
<div>
<i><br /></i></div>
As we set off towards the airport, traffic was very heavy and the reason became apparent as we approached the University of Cape Town. Students were blocking the road in a protest against higher fees, calling for education to be free as described in the Freedom Charter.<br />
<br />
In places, the protests are turning violent, which is extremely concerning to say the least, but at the moment, the ones ere are peaceful and good natured.<br />
<br />
There's a general dissatisfaction with the ANC government everywhere we've been. It seems that loyalty to the party of liberation has not been able to withstand the multiple corruption scandals of late, as the party's heavy losses in the recent local government elections have shown. In the last few days, President Zuma has paid back a proportion of the Nkandla money, but it feels like rather too little too late. It is clear he will now go, the only question is when.<br />
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"Enjoy the good exchange rate while you can," advised one local resident, "because when Zuma is gone, we will never allow this to happen again."<br />
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And that's the real story of South Africa. It no longer shimmers with Mandela magic, but neither is it the failed state that some residents disgruntled with the fall of apartheid would have you believe.<br />
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Democracy is alive and well, there is a strong, independent judiciary and the office of the Public Protector is rooting out government corruption. Things can only - and will only - continue to improve.<br />
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The repeated plea we've heard everywhere is for people to come here - the economy is dependent on foreign visitors. And so that is my plea, too. Visit. This is the most geographically beautiful, ecologically fascinating and culturally diverse country in the world. South African's are friendly and welcoming, their wildlife enthralling that there really is something for everyone - beaches, cities, wilderness, desert, luxury, basics and a retreat for the soul.<br />
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So visit. And visit. And visit again. It will transform the way you see the world and will captivate your heart in a way that will never leave you.<br />
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I for one can't wait to get back...<br />
<br />
<i>Note: Since this diary entry was written, political events have moved apace in South Africa. Thuli Madonsela has finished her term as Public Protector and her successor seems less enthusiastic in holding the government's feet to the fire. Zuma is trying to block Madonsela's report into 'state capture' and her successor is not defending it. Finance Minister Pravin Gordhan is facing trumped up charges of fraud (for offering someone early retirement) in a bid to have him replaced with someone more Zuma-friendly. South Africa has withdrawn from the International Criminal Court. The student protests have become increasingly violent, with many deaths now occurring. Rather than deal with the protests, Zuma took himself off to Kenya to discuss the urgent matter of avocado prices. Many of these matters come before the highest court in the land in November and I truly hope and believe that South Africa's courts are strong and independent and that justice will take its course.</i>Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-58261924975698323232016-10-24T12:40:00.002-07:002016-10-24T12:41:44.608-07:00Another religion<h2>
Monday 26th September</h2>
<h3>
Hout Bay, Cape Town, Western Cape Province</h3>
<h3>
</h3>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAaud1JG0jw2ElUk0mNcIxKt7vwhEnpSRtGgBmELeFFSX3Ng-MZEKfmRJmqR9ItjrbSVdiMV_GsAk7WEHHzmxr0kVTgeV1rkKzohHUN9bBJylZOAkLZikIFjRxFWFaSy9U9T0V4v7Q7pku/s1600/IMG_4818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAaud1JG0jw2ElUk0mNcIxKt7vwhEnpSRtGgBmELeFFSX3Ng-MZEKfmRJmqR9ItjrbSVdiMV_GsAk7WEHHzmxr0kVTgeV1rkKzohHUN9bBJylZOAkLZikIFjRxFWFaSy9U9T0V4v7Q7pku/s200/IMG_4818.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">National Assembly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This morning we took a stroll around Cape Town City Centre, passing the parliament and visiting St. George's Cathedral, former seat of Archbishop Desmond Tutu. Located right next to parliament, it is easy to see what a thorn in the side of the apartheid government this must have been.<br />
<br />
But church is not the only religion on the go here. After lunch, we went to the Springbok Experience, the story of South Africa's love affair with rugby, described throughout as "a religion".<br />
<br />
It tells the story from the first Springbok team in 1906, through the separate teams and boycotts of the apartheid era, the formation of the Rugby Union in 1992 and <br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPh3YzOtXl7GtwVlVPYmUPq8QgbB0XFF8lkoYkN79UpGRQvezCxH80wp8qVeLFcJYIilMvdCipo5FT5weKs-oye9gCIvAkVlDZVu766_F2U-Xk86kzPwJLUOoqz_Fk4N-pS9KiudAFvEt7/s1600/IMG_4827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPh3YzOtXl7GtwVlVPYmUPq8QgbB0XFF8lkoYkN79UpGRQvezCxH80wp8qVeLFcJYIilMvdCipo5FT5weKs-oye9gCIvAkVlDZVu766_F2U-Xk86kzPwJLUOoqz_Fk4N-pS9KiudAFvEt7/s200/IMG_4827.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A piece of Mandela magic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
the winning of the 1995 World Cup when Mandela famously appeared on the field in a Springbok cap and Francois Pienaar's number 6 jersey in an inspired moment which united a nation.<br />
<br />
There is an area to try out for the Bokke in a series of simulators. It turns out my fitness is better than expected and I can kick like Patrick Lambie but am possibly the world's worst at passing.<br />
<br />
The 'experience' finishes with a passionate 'Our Honour. Our Heritage' film, which could convert the most sceptical into a Springbok fan. This is followed with a pint of the local beer, a sip of which reminded me why I don't drink.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyk-0y36-W8JlyylW5qiceyUe3aN3Y3cqlyhmMm9Atz0o8Eo2Z7Q4lrOyHuoeLWHJUyVgccQKgq0zcmrOPYGBiYcpT_-an5kR-L5WHj4_Ekkdvn9UWO3caADdHVPipXM-RjoOziyf-FuP3/s1600/IMG_4825.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyk-0y36-W8JlyylW5qiceyUe3aN3Y3cqlyhmMm9Atz0o8Eo2Z7Q4lrOyHuoeLWHJUyVgccQKgq0zcmrOPYGBiYcpT_-an5kR-L5WHj4_Ekkdvn9UWO3caADdHVPipXM-RjoOziyf-FuP3/s200/IMG_4825.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enough said</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Perhaps the most amusing part of the museum was the account of South Africa's first game against Scotland, which the Boks won 44-0. One Scotland fan is quoted as saying, "Forty-four nil, and we were lucky to get the nil!"<br />
<br />
Dinner overlooking the V&A Waterfront signalled our last night here, then as if to get us ready for going home, the heavens opened on the drive back round the bay.Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-62505160560086852902016-10-23T13:29:00.000-07:002016-10-23T13:29:09.847-07:00Taking to the skies<h2>
Sunday 25th September</h2>
<h3>
Hout Bay, Cape Town, Western Cape Privonce</h3>
<h3>
<br /></h3>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTnFuXe_6ydyLejpYxiIlDKzbR8-lKag9MK-uakMqU9L7Ge_FAZb-FrnjHmSgPtM7novlLY_uthd4P9-MbyDpyxT137ciqLvLGrzoGPaXwyBFK9WlF-W97HFAey7eIGihQveyiE8fCpKze/s1600/DSC_0853.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTnFuXe_6ydyLejpYxiIlDKzbR8-lKag9MK-uakMqU9L7Ge_FAZb-FrnjHmSgPtM7novlLY_uthd4P9-MbyDpyxT137ciqLvLGrzoGPaXwyBFK9WlF-W97HFAey7eIGihQveyiE8fCpKze/s200/DSC_0853.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cape Town Helicopters</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The coast of the peninsula and the hills that surround it are so breathtakingly beautiful that it's hard to take them all in, so we decided to see them from above by helicopter.<br />
<br />
Flying from the east pier of the V&A Waterfront, we rounded Sea Point, flew over the beaches of Clifton and Camps Bay and crossed over to Hout Bay, circling over the harbour and turning over the place where we are staying before returning by the same route.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgeAmQAKFpGj1xr-he28uJ8jvO4B1kWDPfSL7vxrqz6bQ9XjLHyPmFgfeKZFG-2d3ZxMRbTS-zO8U8MmnSLWrJo-8BMyrPeCPho5Fu9gPUKcorpi6v8TVi0Q0uwexiMH445LrQaVKzdFjP/s1600/P9250369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgeAmQAKFpGj1xr-he28uJ8jvO4B1kWDPfSL7vxrqz6bQ9XjLHyPmFgfeKZFG-2d3ZxMRbTS-zO8U8MmnSLWrJo-8BMyrPeCPho5Fu9gPUKcorpi6v8TVi0Q0uwexiMH445LrQaVKzdFjP/s320/P9250369.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sea Point and V&A Waterfront from above</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Seeing from above only serves to make things even more beautiful - the changing tones of the water, the dramatic waves crashing against the cliff faces, the chance to see Table Mountain, Signal Hill and the Twelve Apostles all in one view. That it was a gloriously sunny day helped!<br />
<br />
Though Cape Town's CBD appears relatively small, seeing the Cape Flats stretch out for miles really brings home how big a city it is. From the opposite window, Robben Island looks suffocatingly small when viewed from above. (Actually, it looks like Craggy Island in the opening credits of Father Ted.)<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh92aqhq3P_d4hFFcw3_ptHMx_nRriaW32smIhYWOGyNo33OQMVs5mSZV7stMmXdcPx-pVf9JBW6-k3ND2yqi82WVu6sSrkfFS-zvqljQe24Ce1SKHcM5DFobwbI0y_3O8HnWXnckNBk83e/s1600/P9250363.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh92aqhq3P_d4hFFcw3_ptHMx_nRriaW32smIhYWOGyNo33OQMVs5mSZV7stMmXdcPx-pVf9JBW6-k3ND2yqi82WVu6sSrkfFS-zvqljQe24Ce1SKHcM5DFobwbI0y_3O8HnWXnckNBk83e/s200/P9250363.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hout Bay from above</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As the helicopter lowers over the waterfront, it strikes me what an incredible development this is - the whole world in one harbour.<br />
<br />
Contrast the tranquillity of the bay with the hustle and bustle of the Bay Market Harbour we visited this morning. This extended garage sale for local artists was alive with music, bartering and trade.<br />
<br />
The afternoon was so hot that we headed to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens to stroll amongst the proteas and succulents and enjoy the weather.<br />
<br />
And, a day late, we were able to celebrate National Braai Day.Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-72295287082322082512016-10-22T04:49:00.000-07:002016-10-22T04:49:09.510-07:00Cape Point<h2>
Saturday 24th September - Heritage Day</h2>
<h3>
Hout Bay, Cape Town, Western Cape Province</h3>
<h3>
<br /></h3>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhat0bh9Jqboa6iWJ22bhT9YfaWnQlfVIDkHFl7bZS1-6RXJcxAQ1CXnRDJyujjYNS1em4S2P5g1POrTpoFAjQSG58pAVD5s6iM5Gn4o4aQYxjWmsE_OGyhGcFlSbkRIkv9W_dDJsYUQnT-/s1600/P9240316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhat0bh9Jqboa6iWJ22bhT9YfaWnQlfVIDkHFl7bZS1-6RXJcxAQ1CXnRDJyujjYNS1em4S2P5g1POrTpoFAjQSG58pAVD5s6iM5Gn4o4aQYxjWmsE_OGyhGcFlSbkRIkv9W_dDJsYUQnT-/s200/P9240316.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cape Point</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Cape Point earns a living from being mistaken for the most southerly tip of Africa. It is not. That accolade lies a few hundred kilometres away at Cape Agulhas, but that doesn't stop the busloads of tourists showing up here and taking a selfie. It is, though, the most south-westerly point of Africa and offers far more dramatic scenery than Agulhas.<br />
<br />
As the rugged cliffs plunge into the sea, which appears calm on one side and stormy on the other, it does have a feeling of being at the very end of the earth.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0b9dmA2oJY8vE339JgnAimJXEnQZ7D5ef-FRrVKHu9JHPcUGND7GbMf_-9nlSG6OPS87R-AXHjEyxDQbsPLhkZVKU0XgPfkkLQRVyJxe8U0t1bYq_cs8THXtrRdCdqtnS31YwetMTQnO/s1600/P9240324.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0b9dmA2oJY8vE339JgnAimJXEnQZ7D5ef-FRrVKHu9JHPcUGND7GbMf_-9nlSG6OPS87R-AXHjEyxDQbsPLhkZVKU0XgPfkkLQRVyJxe8U0t1bYq_cs8THXtrRdCdqtnS31YwetMTQnO/s200/P9240324.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heritage Day singing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Except, that is, for the unending stream of coach tours, each bring a new bunch of tourists to jostle for the best picture-taking spot. Just as the very limits of faith in humanity are being tested, along comes a throng of women wearing their traditional dress (as today is Heritage Day) singing hymns and freedom songs which touch every corner of the soul. Their presence even drowns out the cries of the baboons who command control of these cliffs. (Aside - these are the only baboons in the world that hunt for shellfish on the beach.)<br />
<br />
The drive over Chapman's Peak to get down to the Cape Peninsula feels like being in a car advert, twisting and winding its way round the blue waters and rugged rock face.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKpvk1cD_-MbhAzJiZwvOf-vWgKBSMClvwP_h8kMAG53CH1oP3mPq_abml_DC3bvp_vvFeqDj1zngqlRlkv-veKORk5XO7vQiLxTBNrZZ1UK1MJN-2YiMY2g_XfUlKF5AAYMxESOYte3HP/s1600/P9240329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKpvk1cD_-MbhAzJiZwvOf-vWgKBSMClvwP_h8kMAG53CH1oP3mPq_abml_DC3bvp_vvFeqDj1zngqlRlkv-veKORk5XO7vQiLxTBNrZZ1UK1MJN-2YiMY2g_XfUlKF5AAYMxESOYte3HP/s200/P9240329.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Penguins, Boulders Beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Returning up the other coast, we stopped at Boulder's Beach to visit another colony of African penguins, many of which had chicks. On the neighbouring beach, we were able to get down into the water with a few of them. They move at quite a speed as they fish through the kelp forests.<br />
<br />
Heritage Day is also celebrated as National Braai Day, but the weather is somewhat damp and miserable, so we will postpone our celebrations until tomorrow. For now, the local steakhouse will have to suffice...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv5n7Zq8i77WMZoMECkskt99-AwzeLjvgcL4OsJ_kfMjHa5JxF8n3rEiYcVQm22RSkTyuuuPlf6rZGzdab-8TTxa2WtUppgMaAoPGa_oIRGn-5ocHYYsMNyAYrLzmJwhHnXuGFzM3auPn-/s1600/P9240352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv5n7Zq8i77WMZoMECkskt99-AwzeLjvgcL4OsJ_kfMjHa5JxF8n3rEiYcVQm22RSkTyuuuPlf6rZGzdab-8TTxa2WtUppgMaAoPGa_oIRGn-5ocHYYsMNyAYrLzmJwhHnXuGFzM3auPn-/s400/P9240352.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Only in Africa...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-2499310502026550892016-10-21T09:15:00.000-07:002016-10-21T09:15:23.919-07:00Die Eiland<h2>
Friday 23rd September</h2>
<h3>
Hout Bay, Cape Town, Western Cape Province</h3>
<h3>
</h3>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaXaXIgrwFojtvABf6hpV5FwSC5eCOHne2ADHtASD2P6RqCu1XGHsM2Er9D0lFN8mGoWxWIA_2wW3tXerikcdN3IJjStN0G5fSNWznYMoKp2yjhXrUezwB-3eK4GN5usLAfF5AteXsx-DB/s1600/P9230281.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaXaXIgrwFojtvABf6hpV5FwSC5eCOHne2ADHtASD2P6RqCu1XGHsM2Er9D0lFN8mGoWxWIA_2wW3tXerikcdN3IJjStN0G5fSNWznYMoKp2yjhXrUezwB-3eK4GN5usLAfF5AteXsx-DB/s320/P9230281.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Die Eiland</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Looking out from Table Bay, just 12km from the shore sits the unmistakeable outline of Robben Island. <br />
<br />
As we sailed towards it on a modern catamaran with dolphins swimming alongside, it could not have been a more different arrival that that experienced by its prisoners who would be enclosed in darkness in the bowels of the Susan Kruger on the choppy sea.<br />
<br />
The tour of the island began by bus, revealing the graves of its former leper colony, the warders' village and the house of Robert Sobukwe - a man deemed so dangerous the was not allowed with the other prisoners.<br />
<br />
After that, we were shown around the Maximum Security Prison by one of its former inmates Zozo, who spent five years here from 1977-1982 for protesting during the Soweto Uprising of 1976.<br />
<br />
The clanging of the metal doors is reminiscent of the opening credits of Porridge, but this is no HMP Slade, and the wardens here would have made Mr Mackay seem like Father Christmas.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiehTNlrPGKEybZ3KbBW6KvnXq2V71UHxwylz7QFq2KYTAHOYtY66ZAsUrG5zA7mxOxiOfqJ3W2kjavA7-bmFghyP7rBVj99-v4zPhv92DW4lB_my45N6jrAciQlj8V_VnZocZaCvOmjZ9F/s1600/P9230286.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiehTNlrPGKEybZ3KbBW6KvnXq2V71UHxwylz7QFq2KYTAHOYtY66ZAsUrG5zA7mxOxiOfqJ3W2kjavA7-bmFghyP7rBVj99-v4zPhv92DW4lB_my45N6jrAciQlj8V_VnZocZaCvOmjZ9F/s320/P9230286.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exercise yard and Mandela's garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We were shown the admissions room, the censor's office where prisoners' letters were cut to shreds, the exercise yard (including Mandela's garden), the solitary confinement unity and the cells of B-section, but there's just one cell that most people are interested in - that of prisoner 466/64 - Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela.<br />
<br />
Zozo used this opportunity, as he did many others, to preach Mandela's message of peace and reconciliation - "otherwise, this is all for nothing. You must forogive. You must forgive."<br />
<br />
Clearly, though, this is not an easy experience for him. Asked if it is important to him to tell his story, he replies, "No. I do not want to be here - it is too traumatic. But I need to feed my family." As we pass the solitary confinement unit he mumbles, "They send you here and they do things to you. Things I can't talk about." As the tears well up in his eyes, it is difficult to realise that he has to relive these horrors multiple times each day for the benefit of tourists.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZdiEj-9_RjoZazvCBXn8AJezixm9-9bucgSngWwUHe2ZHMvet_U2FL8BHh7nqykKyQvZKJDuEzsTNnFRknwNkVCO7vKorJSAiar2AjQJVPVBanitAdnSu-p8m0RDdBTcx1c2_DSFDdsp_/s1600/P9230288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZdiEj-9_RjoZazvCBXn8AJezixm9-9bucgSngWwUHe2ZHMvet_U2FL8BHh7nqykKyQvZKJDuEzsTNnFRknwNkVCO7vKorJSAiar2AjQJVPVBanitAdnSu-p8m0RDdBTcx1c2_DSFDdsp_/s320/P9230288.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mandela's cell</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As we say farewell in D-section, he finishes with an impassioned plea - "Please, go home and tell everyone in your country that South Africa is an amazing country where all are equal before the law. Encourage them to visit. We need them, and we need their investment. Please, tell people to come."<br />
<br />
And so I do: Zozo is right - this is the most wonderful country and you really must visit.<br />
<br />
After a very rough crossing back to the V&A Waterfront, we took a ride on the Cape Wheel to get a look over the bay. <br />
<br />
This was nothing, however, compared to the view from the top of Table Mountain, which we ascended by cable car.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI5fvjJE9REy00J830UknusQ-Sz_-lUUBwE9PAMKCY_Jey5094FH7qODMhQlWP2iF_ir15hykqjGDrjFPDZR8jAKirQaEHMTLThgQ5dHccFUSOmVIv9Z8MWRJmtmC1hcxfaKE0yLx6zJfP/s1600/P9230291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI5fvjJE9REy00J830UknusQ-Sz_-lUUBwE9PAMKCY_Jey5094FH7qODMhQlWP2iF_ir15hykqjGDrjFPDZR8jAKirQaEHMTLThgQ5dHccFUSOmVIv9Z8MWRJmtmC1hcxfaKE0yLx6zJfP/s320/P9230291.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zozo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Die Eiland was clearly visible from the top, and the opposite is also true. From Robben Island, Table Mountain loomed so large it must have offered Mandela and his comrades a constant and taunting glimpse of freedom. A freedom - thank God - they were able to see in their lifetime. For countless others, though, their part in the struggle did not allow them to see the benefits it won.<br />
<br />
Looking from the mountain over the glorious white-sand beaches, the busy modern city, the lush vineyards of the winelands, Zozo's plea again comes to mind - this is a wonderful country, and you really must visit.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7rCHAI5mwoTHMnNcRLMxrtVd2v_PLUrxNZGBad_vQNiyMOy5tsr5E3uA-SLq-pfgTCY4_jFvHAkeH8swt8a-QIjrG2OZpb-arDoZ-zyzHgrNK0ArnmSoz7S7Pwes0kqS_xbsy0IM8JHs1/s1600/P9230305.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7rCHAI5mwoTHMnNcRLMxrtVd2v_PLUrxNZGBad_vQNiyMOy5tsr5E3uA-SLq-pfgTCY4_jFvHAkeH8swt8a-QIjrG2OZpb-arDoZ-zyzHgrNK0ArnmSoz7S7Pwes0kqS_xbsy0IM8JHs1/s400/P9230305.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Table Mountain - the Beloved Country</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-69222504865133020102016-10-20T15:20:00.000-07:002016-10-20T15:20:27.954-07:00A limerick tribute to Thuli...In her role as the Public Protector -<br />
SA's corruption inspector -<br />
Thuli Madonsela<br />
was something quite stellar:<br />
if she stands for high office, elect her!<br />
<br />
Despite intimidation and threat,<br />
she proved a tremendous asset:<br />
she spoke truth to power,<br />
caused grown men to cower<br />
in a way we will never forget.<br />
<br />
With bravery and with good humour,<br />
she stood up to President Zuma.<br />
To cries of "Amandla!"<br />
she showed that Nkandla<br />
was more than an EFF rumour.<br />
<br />
At the close of a seven year chapter,<br />
she bowed out to cheers of great rapture,<br />
but right to the end<br />
she had to defend<br />
investigating State Capture.<br />
<br />
So now at the end of her reign,<br />
Thuli's legacy will remain.<br />
Her's certainly will<br />
be big shoes to fill,<br />
but our loss is Stellenbosch's gain.Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-22371648904535989442016-10-20T12:34:00.000-07:002016-10-20T12:34:16.231-07:00Volmoed<h2>
Thursday 22nd September</h2>
<h3>
Hout Bay, Cape Town, Western Cape Province</h3>
<h3>
<br /></h3>
Volmoed literally means 'full of courage' and that is a good descriptor of the people who bought the farm we've been staying on in 1986 at the height of apartheid violence to create a place of peace and reconciliation where all are welcome.<br />
<br />
A community lives on Volmoed today and they offer their ministry of reconciliation to all comers.<br />
<br />
Before departing, we joined the community for their weekly sharing of Holy Communion led by the theologian John W de Gruchy. He reflected on the way apartheid abused the story of the tower of Babel to create a theology of division and linked this to the story of Pentecost as a theology of reconciliation. "God wants us all to find our voice in the world," he claimed, and suggested that the #FeesMustFall student protests for free education currently taking place across the country were a result of precisely that - young people finding their voice. Our role as Christian is not to be a voice for the voiceless, but rather to help the voiceless find their voice. (You can - and should - read John's full meditation here: <a href="http://volmoedhermanus.blogspot.co.uk/2016/09/meditation-language-community-by-john.html">http://volmoedhermanus.blogspot.co.uk/2016/09/meditation-language-community-by-john.html</a>)<br />
<br />
The Volmoed Community was truly one of the most welcoming groups of people we've ever come across. And, as ever, they proved a reminder of how small a world we live in - one man was a close friend of John Cairns and Bert Kerrigan.<br />
<br />
(Some clearly also thought Scotland was a small place - "Do you know a Mrs Oliphants? She lives in Scotland.")<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwFLPVShvdvwanEO8ITQMYc4VazqQf9O1jrBpx8WgKYfKEXWHcqFWHVVAQD_5pewRwwM-zx8LfLaq0efgvKa_hBwb0grPV-yaOwbt30oOf3ZYmMtaxzg436HDEcT_BK74mb75-ymWkCqaa/s1600/P9220251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwFLPVShvdvwanEO8ITQMYc4VazqQf9O1jrBpx8WgKYfKEXWHcqFWHVVAQD_5pewRwwM-zx8LfLaq0efgvKa_hBwb0grPV-yaOwbt30oOf3ZYmMtaxzg436HDEcT_BK74mb75-ymWkCqaa/s320/P9220251.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Penguins at Stony Point</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From Volmoed, we drove around the coastal road of False Bay, stopping at Stony Point where we encountered the rather large colony of African penguins, many with chicks.<br />
<br />
There are several colonies along this coast, despite all the odds against them. The penguins and their eggs are preyed upon by otters, mongoose, genets and even leopards, and competition for food is fierce - the seal population here has increased from 100,000 to over 2 million in the last century. Still, though, these little colonies of fascinating birds hang on in there - perhaps they could also be described as 'volmoed'.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinafohYWjBya-a_U02M2g3gywPUsQOSQVr62rpCab0ztVBNXVdfh4aWsE6TEMMyaTQ8s2CoXuW09FZmFklyCxHMIis6wA2T9SExk5FJ2qc7bPBUErb4UBu7IumVy0BrjCzjhyphenhyphenzg_pOQQuv/s1600/P9220273.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinafohYWjBya-a_U02M2g3gywPUsQOSQVr62rpCab0ztVBNXVdfh4aWsE6TEMMyaTQ8s2CoXuW09FZmFklyCxHMIis6wA2T9SExk5FJ2qc7bPBUErb4UBu7IumVy0BrjCzjhyphenhyphenzg_pOQQuv/s320/P9220273.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">African Penguin at Stony Point</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From here, it was on to Hout Bay, where a couple of very large seals were being fed fish on the harbour wall, and Camps Bay, which has a beach to rival any Caribbean island. The bay is overlooked by the "Twelve Apostles" hills, though we could only count eleven - perhaps Judas has sloped off into the shadows.<br />
<br />
The sea was, however, freezing cold - neither of us had enough 'moed' to give it a try!Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-3126553649597491352016-10-19T04:14:00.001-07:002016-10-19T04:14:32.234-07:00Whales<h2>
Wednesday 21st September</h2>
<h3>
Volmoed Community, Hermanus, Western Cape Province</h3>
<h3>
<br /></h3>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_OdYN7cdULvMjXhSUbMc1I3GD7DaeO2Vruu_yCMowhIy-XEVBw-Q5Y_g_Xn7Sp2S1nzhtp4MDw_11HeeljrtNv_-VTtLCdgU2qi7ZIfj7qx8SostmaVGapQoqxS28Ho4_gsOgMCs7CpRv/s1600/P9210249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_OdYN7cdULvMjXhSUbMc1I3GD7DaeO2Vruu_yCMowhIy-XEVBw-Q5Y_g_Xn7Sp2S1nzhtp4MDw_11HeeljrtNv_-VTtLCdgU2qi7ZIfj7qx8SostmaVGapQoqxS28Ho4_gsOgMCs7CpRv/s320/P9210249.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Southern right whale</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The whales came out in force this morning. They are southern rights and this is their breeding season. They are easy to identify by their distinctive v-shaped 'blow' and we were delighted by several of them frolicking in the bay.<br />
<br />
After this, we drove to Caledon for a spot of relaxation in the thermal springs there before returning to Hermanus to check on the whales (and dassies) as the sun set.<br />
<br />
The sky looks magnificent tonight: not only the Southern Cross and a multitude of stars, but whole galaxies can be seen. It is only when staying so far in the middle of nowhere that one realises how much of life is drowned in artificial light.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5TYX5tN5Pt0rnaJIaBz7FNApfh9QfBTSGJZOBsnQSC_KbmLQ374k_PFRGDbwXbyOKNzPpsfQa7NopoNvo6dxrNCPBchBRozMkjB1qPnX2i8r30gw_cnVk57mMSups91fKffy5VBR9OTmA/s1600/P9210237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="164" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5TYX5tN5Pt0rnaJIaBz7FNApfh9QfBTSGJZOBsnQSC_KbmLQ374k_PFRGDbwXbyOKNzPpsfQa7NopoNvo6dxrNCPBchBRozMkjB1qPnX2i8r30gw_cnVk57mMSups91fKffy5VBR9OTmA/s320/P9210237.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Southern right whale</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-47093321433705888062016-10-18T12:10:00.001-07:002016-10-18T12:10:16.057-07:00Choose life, choose a job...<h2>
Tuesday 20th September</h2>
<h3>
Volmoed Community, Hermanus, Western Cape</h3>
<h3>
<br /></h3>
Today we said goodbye to the Cederberg hills and headed to the south coast.<br />
<br />
En route, we stopped at Solms Delta vineyard, a community empowerment programme started by South African Mark Solms and British businessman Richard Astor. Members of the local community whose lives were impacted by slavery and apartheid are helped to buy and manage a vineyard which is then used to produce Solms Delta wine, with the profits earning a living for many families.<br />
<br />
They state their aims as being to ensure that future generations can choose a living based on preference and skills rather than being forced into one by fate or necessity. Solms Delta is a true success story of Black Economic Empowerment and a model that could well be followed across the country.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPoiwb5Dzx6zWsPHSB0Ryl1oGFKTOjYk9SZa1oSobQOY1bzZJccE-rjUjqZYlSY7sgM0mn91YoEyqLMWORDVSLHguJ3jR8RwwqbZ9ctOOWftLc6bTKcVO2hx_OnfV46_1ENlUlWuSsq666/s1600/P9210244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPoiwb5Dzx6zWsPHSB0Ryl1oGFKTOjYk9SZa1oSobQOY1bzZJccE-rjUjqZYlSY7sgM0mn91YoEyqLMWORDVSLHguJ3jR8RwwqbZ9ctOOWftLc6bTKcVO2hx_OnfV46_1ENlUlWuSsq666/s200/P9210244.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dassie</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After lunch in nearby Franschoek, we drove over the Franschoek Pass, where the scenery of the whole world lies before you: first, the lush vineyards of Southern France, then looking down the valley into the Swiss Alps, heading over the Rocky Mountains into a desolate stony outcrop on the Western Isles and arriving into the rolling green hills of middle England.<br />
<br />
We arrived in Hermanus, which claims to offer the best land-based whale watching on earth. There were no whales to be seen, but the hundreds of dassies (rock hyrax) jumping about on the cliffs kept us amused.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3r_UOIhWgTs_sy075VwfnswacM4q_eWZ9n5gTOr416ry-a_daXQejYmssbe8xfMGVq9jQq1Lr-JB3jEILtGDQYRw0ASNML76Odxt648humMDBMdAosWiSY2cPbWaGdMAZF5nqcytxlr7E/s1600/P9200226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3r_UOIhWgTs_sy075VwfnswacM4q_eWZ9n5gTOr416ry-a_daXQejYmssbe8xfMGVq9jQq1Lr-JB3jEILtGDQYRw0ASNML76Odxt648humMDBMdAosWiSY2cPbWaGdMAZF5nqcytxlr7E/s320/P9200226.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dassie</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRfAL2XfDdF-hErD2rQNdSatOVt3CyTrDZDHnnnqY6O2YJw5dd6HRCCzn5INXVM7ZQTLz-_gJqFJ2j2M3BU8lOrrwmOEJzcMHq08fPcW79DthhoElQ-tvuJ_IF7czmwfwpPUMXwIltRle/s1600/P9210246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRfAL2XfDdF-hErD2rQNdSatOVt3CyTrDZDHnnnqY6O2YJw5dd6HRCCzn5INXVM7ZQTLz-_gJqFJ2j2M3BU8lOrrwmOEJzcMHq08fPcW79DthhoElQ-tvuJ_IF7czmwfwpPUMXwIltRle/s320/P9210246.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"For added adventure, take your partner to the top of a really steep cliff..."</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-16831352807341513432016-10-15T06:45:00.000-07:002016-10-15T06:45:45.498-07:00The world's most remarkable woman?I'd like to stop and salute one of the world's most remarkable women. She has championed the cause of justice. She has stood up to powerful male bullies. She has faced death threats and intimidation. She has almost single-handedly fought to defend democracy and good governance and to combat corruption. And yet, most Brits will never have heard of her.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://62e528761d0685343e1c-f3d1b99a743ffa4142d9d7f1978d9686.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/files/92559/area14mp/image-20150820-7221-1p0x2p8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://62e528761d0685343e1c-f3d1b99a743ffa4142d9d7f1978d9686.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/files/92559/area14mp/image-20150820-7221-1p0x2p8.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Advocate Thuli Madonsela</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Her name is Thuli Madonsela and at midnight, she ended her seven year term as South Africa's Public Protector, a sort of ombudsman into all areas of government and executive life.<br />
<br />
When she was appointed in 2009, the Office of the Public Protector didn't have much of a profile, would not have been seen by those in office as a threat to their power and Madonsela was not regarded as anything special. But that disregards her history...<br />
<br />
In the early 1980s, she was a teacher in Swaziland then Soweto, and went on to work for the trade union movements fighting against apartheid, serving in both the ANC and the United Democratic Movement. She completed legal studies at the University of Swaziland in 1987 and qualified as an advocate in 1990. In 1994, she turned down the chance to become an ANC MP, believing politics would not allow her to make her "best contribution as a human being." She became part of Nelson Mandela's team to draft South Africa's constitution, widely regarded as the most progressive and egalitarian in the world, and went on to serve on the South African Law Reform Society.<br />
<br />
From her appointment as Public Protector, she has investigated South Africa's most powerful people, including the Chief of Police, the chair of the ANC Youth League, government ministers and leading businesspeople and has been a constant thorn in the side of an increasingly corrupt President Zuma. She has ruthlessly investigated government excesses, incompetence and corruption and reported boldly with her own artistic flair. <br />
<br />
In the most publicised case, she found in 2014 that President Jacob Zuma had benefited unduly from R23million of public money spent on his private residence in Nkandla. These so-called "security upgrades" included a swimming pool, an amphitheatre, a cattle kraal and a chicken coup. She ordered that Zuma should pay back an appropriate sum to the public purse. But Zuma, and the ANC in parliament, took every opportunity to dismiss her report and her powers. She was publicly threatened by leading members of the party and accused of being "partisan" and "overstepping her office".<br />
<br />
But Madonsela was unflinching. She held press conference after press conference exposing the truth of what the President and his bully-boys were up to. She tweeted with words so brave they bordered on foolish. She took Zuma, Parliament and the Speaker of Parliament to the highest court in the land... and won. The Constitutional Court found that the President, Speaker and Parliament had all "failed to uphold the constitution" in not carrying out Madonsela's remedial actions. Last month, Zuma finally paid back some of the money. The Goliath of the system was no match for Madonsela's David.<br />
<br />
Even on her last day in the job, Madonsela was fighting to speak truth to power. She announced she would release the report into her investigation into "state capture", prompted when Minister Jonas revealed he had been offered the position of Finance Minister by a wealth businessman.<br />
<br />
At the last minute, Zuma and Minister Des van Rooyen launched legal proceedings to try and interdict her from reporting, clearly hoping to kick the issue into the long grass when the new Public Protector takes over. The interdict hearing will be held on 1st November, but she has preserved her report, lodging a copy with the Speaker of Parliament so that it can be released in full once the proceedings are over even though she is no longer in office.<br />
<br />
On Wednesday, she was announced as one of the <a href="http://www.tallbergfoundation.org/how-we-work/the-tallberg-foundation-global-leadership-prize/announcing-the-tallberg-foundation-global-leaders-2016/" target="_blank">Tällberg Foundation</a>'s Global Leaders - one of the five most important and influential women in the world.<br />
<br />
Madonsela insists she just did her job, but without her, South Africa could have become another Zimbabwe with a leadership seeking only to enhance and entrench its own power. Because of her courage and leadership, democracy and the rule of law remain intact. <br />
<br />
I encourage you to find out more about this remarkable woman. Google "Thuli Madonsela". Watch her interview with BBC Hardtalk on iPlayer. Share her story far and wide as an important female role model. And watch out... if she is prepared to break her self-imposed ban from politics, we could one day be looking at President Thuli Madonsela.Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-73021960807102056702016-10-13T10:03:00.001-07:002016-10-13T10:03:09.450-07:00Small is beautiful<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrgw9-5UV0HDbhyphenhyphenYlZe6V2x45FO2DNfoVB5aw5GllRmUDW1DiGzeCS8TrbhGl8I1kkU6dRiMqYchCQtKHSjLiioPzWktNj1DPT_zxMs5sreTQYlbbVNfmVAVAoOBxz7ytq53WopZYIrFCt/s1600/P9190198.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrgw9-5UV0HDbhyphenhyphenYlZe6V2x45FO2DNfoVB5aw5GllRmUDW1DiGzeCS8TrbhGl8I1kkU6dRiMqYchCQtKHSjLiioPzWktNj1DPT_zxMs5sreTQYlbbVNfmVAVAoOBxz7ytq53WopZYIrFCt/s200/P9190198.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our breakfast companion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2>
Monday 19th September 2016</h2>
<h3>
Wolfkop Nature Reserve, Citrusdal, Western Cape Province</h3>
<h3>
<br /></h3>
It's not every day a mongoose joins you for breakfast, but sitting on the stoep, an incredibly tame grey mongoose came to chance its luck for some food. Sorry boetie, no eggs here!<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj38oSmMQR40i90ain4Yl5WBf6Ps7JK7dt1VFo2nB3LpJ6QcKEewGh3Q8A0U0Cxo08ujew8Z20hMk8DMR0EnpNIQEsm9Cyps9g1a2V2XNbJ66_2dW8EC-ISNH14lfX7inKr21XYZ48-bh-/s1600/P9190208.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj38oSmMQR40i90ain4Yl5WBf6Ps7JK7dt1VFo2nB3LpJ6QcKEewGh3Q8A0U0Cxo08ujew8Z20hMk8DMR0EnpNIQEsm9Cyps9g1a2V2XNbJ66_2dW8EC-ISNH14lfX7inKr21XYZ48-bh-/s200/P9190208.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ramskop Nature Reserve</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After playing with our new-found friend, we drove north to Clanwilliam in search of the flowers, but were informed that we were too late - they were over.<br />
<br />
As we were there anyway, we headed to Ramskop Nature Reserve and were impressed to find the whole ground blanketed in yellow and orange Cape daisies. The locals walking around were very disappointed that they were "past their best" but we were astounded by their beauty. If they are this beautiful when past their best, how stunning must they be at their peak?<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy4H89BXO7r6JdcwoQUngS-5nhtaNOOnKqROIhQdTltPDKj6CoJzhyphenhyphenQrBghBJB5N00MPz8gTHi-xBEhtxKIUadi7G7OQpxPiOOIHR4qzABE2BzTxCXxjRL4tQdRV35YllPxkQvPdn0iyrB/s1600/P9190202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy4H89BXO7r6JdcwoQUngS-5nhtaNOOnKqROIhQdTltPDKj6CoJzhyphenhyphenQrBghBJB5N00MPz8gTHi-xBEhtxKIUadi7G7OQpxPiOOIHR4qzABE2BzTxCXxjRL4tQdRV35YllPxkQvPdn0iyrB/s200/P9190202.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tiny tortoise</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our attention was quickly distracted, however, by a tiny tortoise barely two inches long joining us on the path. There may be no lions or elephants in this part of the country, but nature is showing us that small can also be beautiful.Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-67436110646525529712016-10-12T09:44:00.000-07:002016-10-12T09:44:17.236-07:00God's garden<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMQYdkB90vJWDA8V0K4wqjuYVogpukKtqJoWLdTuQJCtYJ_QmXzNuLBVt0WHf7DuGAsQgi5N1c5K1u-2sI5TEwj4JbgvG5UiS_vYXgf4Xk1a99u6Prvi7FbZtEpHSMdqkpMkBDq2Hciron/s1600/P9190205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMQYdkB90vJWDA8V0K4wqjuYVogpukKtqJoWLdTuQJCtYJ_QmXzNuLBVt0WHf7DuGAsQgi5N1c5K1u-2sI5TEwj4JbgvG5UiS_vYXgf4Xk1a99u6Prvi7FbZtEpHSMdqkpMkBDq2Hciron/s200/P9190205.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cape flowers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2>
Sunday 18th September</h2>
<h3>
Wolfkop Nature Reserve, Citrusdal, Western Cape Province</h3>
<h3>
<br /></h3>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
Like a sudden explosion of skittles, for a few weeks each year, the usually arid coastline and desert of the Western Cape burst into bloom with carpets of the most delicate flowers. In fact, there are more species of flower in this small area than in the entire United Kingdom.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0850-9jlkXcAm7gejgeywTW-RSWLRMrP1VkSc18CcN2C6A49W2nwMAxmWb-EnRXOAyy5bRTBEUVoMViQeln0cijwir8e-C7S0EBB8uM0ijv0q38E1UljsymMwcxXKFSOf-M1cU0YHu5Sd/s1600/P9180165.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0850-9jlkXcAm7gejgeywTW-RSWLRMrP1VkSc18CcN2C6A49W2nwMAxmWb-EnRXOAyy5bRTBEUVoMViQeln0cijwir8e-C7S0EBB8uM0ijv0q38E1UljsymMwcxXKFSOf-M1cU0YHu5Sd/s320/P9180165.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eland among the flowers, West Coast National Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Beginning at Saldhanna Bay in the Postberg section, we worked our way around all of Western Cape National Park, frequently having to stop and wait as tortoises crossed the road. The delicacy and vibrancy of the flowers is mesmerising. The way they tile themselves towards the sun means they are awash with colour in one direction and can't be seen from the other.<br />
<br />
Perhaps the only thing that could match their beauty is the azure bay lapping against the finest white sand. A more heavenly scene could not be imagined.<br />
<br />
Being so remote, we were unable to go to a church this morning, but it is hard not to feel in the presence of God in these surroundings.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>The kiss of the sun for pardon,</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>the song of the bird for mirth:</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>one's nearer to God in a garden</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>than anywhere else on earth.</i></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin4fdmpIKOcAciTPQ86QA3cTWB7fFbr6Ddfcyty_gX7I6oO9vv0B0G9fXtFsCBgUNcc2L2b6BCo9Os9fQxS9YnNZt7TmxRqGB5vvRJ9zXJFz-6j2m25gaH48uXiT8RwjIwAajunOmYHfTM/s1600/P9170151.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin4fdmpIKOcAciTPQ86QA3cTWB7fFbr6Ddfcyty_gX7I6oO9vv0B0G9fXtFsCBgUNcc2L2b6BCo9Os9fQxS9YnNZt7TmxRqGB5vvRJ9zXJFz-6j2m25gaH48uXiT8RwjIwAajunOmYHfTM/s320/P9170151.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">West Coast National Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After lunch, we headed to the town of Citrusdal, nestled - as the name suggests - amidst endless groves of citrus fruit. The hills at times look like the Scottish Highlands, at others like the Arizona Desert. It is a landscape both breath-taking and forbidding.<br />
<br />
Leopard spoor have been found near our accommodation - there's no knowing what lurks in these hills!Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-40041746386583331252016-10-10T09:14:00.000-07:002016-10-10T09:15:02.081-07:00Wild flowers<h2>
Saturday 17th September</h2>
<h3>
West Coast National Park, Western Cape Province</h3>
<h3>
</h3>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijMPjx4mxAvY24XVEGrdDPIOJuMwjKm1VCmaPQ7BqCNJn-E4uGjHxuwQJNiTFUpXVijRTbImPiHNSh-faGVeq-trtcSkBuPh9qdlkiJx8O45b6OKsUpdEafagk8tgh8wgdmkHTl_h8e4-k/s1600/P9230293.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijMPjx4mxAvY24XVEGrdDPIOJuMwjKm1VCmaPQ7BqCNJn-E4uGjHxuwQJNiTFUpXVijRTbImPiHNSh-faGVeq-trtcSkBuPh9qdlkiJx8O45b6OKsUpdEafagk8tgh8wgdmkHTl_h8e4-k/s320/P9230293.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Table Mountain, seen from Cape Town's V&A Waterfront</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Table Mountain revealed herself this morning in all her sun-bathed glory. It has a rather captivating effect - everywhere you turn, it is there, somewhat like the Matterhorn in Switzerland.<br />
<br />
We left Cape Town and headed north to the town of Darling, which was celebrating its annual wildflower show this weekend. There were very few flowers to be found (they don't like to pick the wildflowers) but the whole thing affords an opportunity for a giant party - stalls, good food, wine tasting and merriment aplenty, plus we were able to get our hands on some pofertjies, which put me in seventh heaven.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxk_QA1bhuS66ySUKg1APprT5I5Cm3LxUlPcwGTkeQFrVxM9jWPqseEnHc9dxj2lGa6xHkwHBh5aBiPHhPpT12H_pKqnChCZn5gJ9trpKRYa5j5wG9yJiFQqoYMLInNQ04R1uI_odS27Ow/s1600/P9180175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxk_QA1bhuS66ySUKg1APprT5I5Cm3LxUlPcwGTkeQFrVxM9jWPqseEnHc9dxj2lGa6xHkwHBh5aBiPHhPpT12H_pKqnChCZn5gJ9trpKRYa5j5wG9yJiFQqoYMLInNQ04R1uI_odS27Ow/s320/P9180175.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wild flowers in West Coast National Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After there, we travelled on to West Coast National Park where we were able to see carpets of the wildflowers in the Postberg section, a restricted piece of land only open for two months of the year. We also saw ostrich, wildebeest, springbok, bontebok, eland, kudu and many different species of bird.<br />
<br />
We are spending the night in Duinepos Chalets, a community project to bring economic benefits to the people of Langebaan. The authorities selected all of the owners, staff and contractors by door-to-door visits to the local settlements, and those involved have been running it now for over a decade. The whole thing is run as an eco-tourism destination, using very few resources and channelling employment and profits into this remote area. South Africa needs more endeavours like this to inject change and hope into some of its poorest communities.Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-82272857685541602742016-10-07T06:22:00.001-07:002016-10-07T06:23:26.317-07:00Scotsmen have guilt<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrOZCELSCMJfwK3CHyLfvl-BcOmE4IHdo3xrp83aEj2xU8L6EHzjIed6lOVLgKbdv5SMDVJoLo_kg267KchNeWMHhTsg5vYX6i_plAM3KEfGU18iB7nen7cuvdwiQeEfjp6zNdVlt0lGb3/s1600/P9150135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrOZCELSCMJfwK3CHyLfvl-BcOmE4IHdo3xrp83aEj2xU8L6EHzjIed6lOVLgKbdv5SMDVJoLo_kg267KchNeWMHhTsg5vYX6i_plAM3KEfGU18iB7nen7cuvdwiQeEfjp6zNdVlt0lGb3/s320/P9150135.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karoo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2>
Friday 16th December</h2>
<h3>
Cape Town, Western Cape</h3>
<br />
We awoke as the sun rose over the Karoo. A small herd of springbok grazed on the sparse vegetation as the train rolled merrily forward.<br />
<br />
As we enter the Western Cape, the landscape changes: mountains appear, the ground becomes greener, flamingos and heron occupy the water. The valleys become packed with vineyards and the talk in the lounge car turns to the quality of various wines.<br />
<br />
The train manager approaches. "So, you're a Scotsman - you must have a guilt," he declares.<br />
<br />
I momentarily ponder this statement. Is it a result of the effect of Calvinism on our culture? Does it relate to our colonial past? Just as I am preparing to unburden my soul, I see from his hand gestures that what he meant to say was "kilt".<br />
<br />
I chuckle inwardly at my misapprehension and the conversation that could have flowed from it, but he soon sparks off another language question.<br />
<br />
"We call bagpipes <i>dudelsacks</i>. What do you call them?" he asks. "Bagpipes," I reply.<br />
<br />
It all sets me off thinking about the similarities between our languages:<br />
<ul>
<li>Ag (pronounced lich "och" and meaning the same)</li>
<li>Bakkie - pick-up truck</li>
<li>China - friend</li>
<li>Kak - shit</li>
<li>Kerk - church</li>
<li>Muggie - flying bug</li>
<li>Tekkies - trainers</li>
<li>Vellies - outdoor shoes</li>
</ul>
<div>
Many cultures and nationalities are present on the train. On hearing we were from Scotland, one American gentleman responded, "Great! I love Dublin!" We didn't shatter his illusions.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
26 hours after leaving, the train rolled into Cape Town station amid torrential rain and gale force winds. When the weather finally abated, we walked along the V&A Waterfront, a textbook example of how to redevelop a former industrial site into a gentrified upmarket location.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
We'll be back here next week to visit Robben Island, so more on that later. Tomorrow, we head north up the West Coast in the hope of catching some of the Cape flower season.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-42524314134645920402016-10-06T07:22:00.003-07:002016-10-06T07:22:42.159-07:00Shosholoza<h2>
Thursday 15th September</h2>
<h3>
On a train, North West Province</h3>
<h3>
<br /></h3>
South Africa doesn't really go in for public transport, certainly not on long-haul routes. Driving or flying are really the only ways to cover any distance.<br />
<br />
But today, we tried out two of its (very different) train systems. First up, the Gautrain. Opened six years ago, this ultra-fast, ultra-modern metro-style system connects major destination around Johannesburg and Pretoria.<br />
<br />
Today, we handed back our hire car and took the Gautrain back to Jo'burg city centre. The trains have a bit of a futuristic look, run to a schedule Mussolini would have been proud of and are governed by almost as fascist a set of rules - I could have been fined R700 for daring to take a sip of my water!<br />
<br />
All-in-all, it is an incredibly impressive transport system, designed to convey a sense of safety and security within a city notorious for danger.<br />
<br />
That said, walking around Jozie's streets felt no less safe than many parts of London or Glasgow. We even found time to visit Smit Street in Hillbrow - one of the places my parents lived.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpYc55uKlPmAUJRVHhzu6ejcHC_B1mz0H8mO582Pww9fVwILbpxjtv_7GzaszIv_r-uLeFIqcC0fw3VaF-lmC0pzRy0ZTx37y_Fy3jRlAoO19OR1Mrw3cQ91zhgSsLVX3zoyXENxnbw36Y/s1600/IMG_4796.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpYc55uKlPmAUJRVHhzu6ejcHC_B1mz0H8mO582Pww9fVwILbpxjtv_7GzaszIv_r-uLeFIqcC0fw3VaF-lmC0pzRy0ZTx37y_Fy3jRlAoO19OR1Mrw3cQ91zhgSsLVX3zoyXENxnbw36Y/s320/IMG_4796.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Premier Classe Train</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From Johannesburg, we boarded the Premier Classe train to Cape Town, the public operator's (significantly cheaper) version of the Rovos or Blue Train luxury journeys. It doesn't pretend to meet the Beverley Hills style of its rivals, but offers fine dining and well appointed cabins for this 26 hour journey across the country.<br />
<br />
Leaving the city and passing right through some of the poorest townships we've seen, it did make one feel a tad uncomfortable sitting down to a silver-service five-course meal. Such is the wealth divide in this land.<br />
<br />
We are currently about half-way between Johannesburg and Kimberley. Bed is calling, and with all being well, we should wake up somewhere in the middle of the Karoo.Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8936471524698874036.post-84350345707350360702016-10-05T08:01:00.001-07:002016-10-05T08:01:55.433-07:00All that glistens...<h2>
Wednesday 14th September</h2>
<h3>
Central Business District, Johannesburg, Gauteng Province</h3>
<h3>
<br /></h3>
All that glistens is not gold. Surely the converse is also true: all that is gold does not glisten.<br />
<br />
The grim statistics showing the deaths in Johannesburg's gold mines certainly do not glisten - over 80,000 caused by accidents, and this only about 5% of the total, the others caused by preventable disease.<br />
<br />
As the metal cage descends into the darkness of the gold mine, our three bodies filling a space once packed with thirty men, it begins to become apparent what a hellish job this was.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLIxCP7MqiXZjxAELgfU1oVq7EyOFSrPu9ZWt8DKvm0SGiJg-gkzzsc-On2rQosZnLZ5EfkcW7z2UXtho11HhyphenhyphensfeUqsmAF93K5Gw_4OYDAqRnlBvcPitmIQw-tjI6LJus30I1rsuveXVL/s1600/WP_20160914_13_06_03_Pro+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLIxCP7MqiXZjxAELgfU1oVq7EyOFSrPu9ZWt8DKvm0SGiJg-gkzzsc-On2rQosZnLZ5EfkcW7z2UXtho11HhyphenhyphensfeUqsmAF93K5Gw_4OYDAqRnlBvcPitmIQw-tjI6LJus30I1rsuveXVL/s320/WP_20160914_13_06_03_Pro+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gold Reef City, Johannesburg</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We are given a tour of a former mineshaft and descend just 75m below the surface. This mine is over 3000m deep and gets so close to the earth's core that working conditions become unbearably hot.<br />
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First down the shaft would have been the geologists to identify the gold reef - it's not the part that looks gold (for that is fool's gold) but rather the part with black and white pebbles. They would mark the seam with red paint, then thousands of men would descend to extract the rock and push it to the surface in rail carriages known as cocopans. All that protected the miners rom the tonnes of rock above were a few poles of eucalyptus wood.<br />
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As we re-ascend to the surface to watch a demonstration of how the gold is extracted, melted and poured into bullion, it becomes clear why the colonialists created a system of cheap labour to do this rotten job for them.<br />
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Today, the mine and some of the preserved buildings surrounding it have been turned into a theme park, rather like a cross between Pilgrim's Rest and Disneyland. No longer is it rock falls and gas explosions that make men scream, now it is a series of white-knuckle rides, including the "tower of terror" plunge down a mineshaft.<br />
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Gold is the reason Johannesburg exists (they call it <i>Egoli</i> - the City of Gold) but when one considers the role it played in paving the way to apartheid, one has to wonder if it was more of a curse than a blessing.Darren Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18119557621918447039noreply@blogger.com0